Berserker

Cold start valve is at the cyl5 end of the IM. It would probably only feed 5 and maybe to 3 or so due to the fact that the air is traveling the other way into the intake manifold.

Plumbing into the intercooler or before the TB gives the fuel more room to mix with the air and all the air going into the IM goes to the cylinders.

HTH

Nathan Engelbert
83 UrQ DA900453
89 90q
91 200q20v donor

boxerfan

OK... I signed in and can't find a search window to enter "the_natrix"

Will Ng

<ul><li><a href="http://www.cardomain.com/id/thenatrix">http://www.cardomain.com/id/thenatrix</a</li></ul>

Will Ng

<ul><li><a href="http://www.geocities.com/natman666/Main.htm">http://www.geocities.com/natman666/Main.htm</a</li></ul>

birdmanmt

fuel would be missed on cylinders 4 and 5. and there have been people who have tried putting a cold start valve where all the cylinders would be fed by it, but it flows very little fuel. not enough to matter. It just gives a tiny squirt at start up to get the engine to fire on 1 or 2 cylinders to get things going....

pureroundcircle

not the complete EFI, just the extra fuel system. You could add one or 5 extra injectors on the runners, and tell it to start shooting extra fuel at desired boost whent the CIS is nearing its stock or chipped limits. Would this work??

for reference on what i'm talking about:

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/8inj.html

Anyone set up an audi like that??

birdmanmt

http://www.mswanson.com/~jgreen/car_home.html

he did that about 10 stages ago on his car. i seem to recall a valid reason as to why this was not an ideal setup. maybe email him and ask how it worked?

boxerfan

I can see a cold start valve or a differential pressure regulator, but no warm up regulator in the Bentley manual.

Can someone please clarify this for me?

ur20v

Are you talking about the Rice mod? If I understand correctly, certain Porsche systems use a "backward" WUR setup than our cars - proceed with caution.

Here are the basics to more power...

1. Increase the system pressure to about 90 psi using shims on the plunger (available for *free* at the junkyard) - you may need new injectors, as the increased system pressure means increased rest pressure, and you may see hot start problems because of the leak-down. You might want to take the iniative and get the Ferrari V8 injectors if that floats your boat.

2. Use a WUR from a KH motor. These have two nipples on them, connect a hose from the UPPER nipple directly to the intake manifold. These WUR are boost sensitive. Might be kind of hard to find, you don't see too many type 43's around. *Side note*- Apparently an FPR from a CIS-E car can be used, as it's boost sensitive as wel. You have to get creative with the plumbing. I'm still looking into this, will report when I find out more.

3. Adjust each individual injector outlet - see Nat's website for more info on this.

4. Chip it! QLCC does an ok job on the cheap, but there is a better option from Nat himself. He has spent alot of time and effort on making real timing and fuel maps. His chips are proven and out-perform QLCC chips by a wide margin.

5. I've seen things on the net about steeper intake cones, etc. I don't know much about it, but it sounds like alot of work and such.

6. All the other stuff - heavier springs, shrappnel knobben, bigger IC, toluene, etc. etc.

boxerfan

Seems to me we need to calc. required fuel at specific boost levels and tune the WOT fuel amounts for that level.

This means adjusting the mixture screws for each line and enhancing with the WUR during WOT. We don't want to run too rich under idle condictions.<ul><li><a href="http://www.ncr-pca.org/tech/tech-cis.htm">http://www.ncr-pca.org/tech/tech-cis.htm</a</li></ul>