skitchens

OK, here's the lowdown. Been too busy riding around to update this thing! Anyway, NO valve damage, I got lucky! Everything runs smooth, not running hot anymore, not using water, running good! Replaced: Water Pump, all belts, Timing Belt, distributor & rotor, a couple of hoses, & the valve cover gasket. Now to hunt down the power steering leak!

maynardGK

You may be extremely lucky to have no valve or piston damage
as a result of the broken timing belt. I would doubt that sincerely. But I suppose the TB replace is the QD repair needed to find out what the rest of the damage is. If you wont have fun doing this or wouldn't have money, time, or inclination to further repair your car, consider whether its time for a different car before getting too far invested in repairing this one.

The "auxilliary radiator" is probably a turbo intercooler.
I have 89 audi 200 I just did head gasket - twice (wrong the first time) after I had timing belt/water pump service done professionally. The timing belt is a cinch of a job, you will
want the front bumper off, front grill etc whatever is in the way. there were two protective covers over the crank and cam, you take them off.
to get the new belt in you need to remove the crankshaft center bolt. They have a special tool to do it from the front but intead hold the crank by grabbing a bolt on the flywheel/torque converter through a hole in the bottom at the back of the engine. pull out the crank pulley (vibration damper), inspect.

maynardGK

whoops, I didnt read how you already fixed it!
Not needing that 2084 tool, though, is one thing I can
genuinely contribute - just stick a wrench from underneath
and stop the flywheel from turning.

cuatrokoop

Good! PS leaks can be at the rack, or hose leaks (crimped hose ends leak over time).

audi_marv

Try Bar's Leak Power Steering Sealer if its not just a loose hose or something else simple. This worked great for my small rack/pressure hose crimp leak, and its compatible with the Pentosin/Mineral Oil. Important to add it in small increments, 2oz at a time, and not half a bottle all at once.

If you have the plastic heat shield on your high pressure hose, be sure to pull it all the way toward the front, over the crimped connection, to keep the high engine temp from expanding the crimp and causing a leak.

maynardGK

for PS leak, you of course have the steering rack itself and the high-pressure hose coming from the pump to the rack. I got a shop to
replace my steering rack for $450 total, this is as low as you'll find it, they complained it was a lot harder than doing hondas/toyotas etc.
Just changing the high pressure hose is possible as a DIY although getting that bolt attached to the rack was a miracle; it would have been much easier to have gotten the new hose and let it get installed with the steering rack. But we couldn't be sure the rack was leaking until the hose leak was stopped.
While leaking, i ran with lucas PS stop leak, about $20 per liter,
it slows the leak down but when it becomes the dominant fluid the steering
will be extremely stiff when you are starting out.