Timing belt ?
03-02-2003, 07:44 AM
#12
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just had mine replaced
Bought the following parts: timing belt, water pump, and crank oil seal. Parts cost about $100. I had a good mechanic, who works out of his home garage install the parts. He charged me $280. For a total cost of $380, I feel that I got my monies worth. I wouldn't have minded tackling this job myself, but it is still too cold here in Indiana to work outside on a car, and just too busy with at my job to mess with it.
Rooster
Rooster
03-02-2003, 12:33 PM
#15
AudiWorld Senior Member
hellova lot easier than 12V V6 and rope will hold the crank.
I did the t-belt on both my cars and the 86 5000 was waaaay far easier than the 92 100 CS. Instead of a tool to hold the crank, I used some rope, (Actually an old piece of line from my sailboat with kevlar cord, yeah, it's pretty strong)
the line was wrapped around the crank pulley like you would a lawn mower starter and then tied to the frame member. Since the line has next to no stretch, it held my weight on the end of a 5 foot pipe extension to my breaker bar. A couple jumps on the pipe and the nut came free.
I did take the bumper off and a grind a little metal from the bottom of the stell on the lower skirt to allow the extension to come out the front.
the line was wrapped around the crank pulley like you would a lawn mower starter and then tied to the frame member. Since the line has next to no stretch, it held my weight on the end of a 5 foot pipe extension to my breaker bar. A couple jumps on the pipe and the nut came free.
I did take the bumper off and a grind a little metal from the bottom of the stell on the lower skirt to allow the extension to come out the front.
03-02-2003, 04:14 PM
#17
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Yeah, but the 92 100 has a huge amount of room to wiggle around in...
Helped my friend Bill M. do this on his 92 100, he had actually bought the cam locking tools and it was a snap lots of room to manuever.
There has to be at least 6 inches between the engine and the radiator...
There has to be at least 6 inches between the engine and the radiator...
03-02-2003, 08:21 PM
#19
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Here is a pic of the tool I made
<center><img src="http://images.ofoto.com/photos286/6/68/68/71/75/0/75716868603_0_ALB.jpg"></center><p>If the picture does not come up. right click on message, click on properties, copy and paste URL to browser. I went overboard on this, milling the flat bar to accept the square tube. Too much time on my hands I guess. At about the time I posted this, another lister posted a picture of one he had, it was just a short length of 2" square tube with a foot of angle welded to it. That seems quite sufficient.
The tube has to be ground to accept the lug inside of the pulley. The square tube should not be any longer than necessary to give it a purchase on the lug. If the tube gets too long it becomes difficult to insert a socket and bar, you run into interference with the body structure. A foot of angle and 2" of tube should set you back less than $5.00. Getting them welded together shouldn't be much more.
The tube has to be ground to accept the lug inside of the pulley. The square tube should not be any longer than necessary to give it a purchase on the lug. If the tube gets too long it becomes difficult to insert a socket and bar, you run into interference with the body structure. A foot of angle and 2" of tube should set you back less than $5.00. Getting them welded together shouldn't be much more.
03-03-2003, 09:27 AM
#20
Re: Coors? aint that cheap beer? hehe
He either likes the Silver Bullet, or the Twins.
If I'm gonna drink any typical beer, it'll be Bud/Bud Light. Otherwise, make mine a Killians or Sam Adams.
If I'm gonna drink any typical beer, it'll be Bud/Bud Light. Otherwise, make mine a Killians or Sam Adams.