Very Heavy PS Fluid Leak
#1
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I did not have time to look closely before bumming a ride to work this morning, but here's what happened yesterday.
I got home yesterday and noticed some serious dripping of fluid, from the power steering pump/radiator side. Looked below and everything was soaked with ps fluid. Looked up above and the pump was a little wet. The ac compressor wa covered with fluid and fluid had pooled in areas lower down in the engine compartment under the pump. The fluid resevior is empty.
So, I imagine the pump went. The hoses look old, but they don't appear to be leaking. Despite the underside of the car being wet, it's pretty clear if you take gravity into account that the leak is higher up. Underside of the pump maybe?
I'm not looking forward to pouring more fluid in to find the exact leak. What am I facing here?
I searched some of the threads here, but I didn't see one where the volume of fluid was like a major artery being severed.
Thanks for any tips and advice.
Bill Graham
I got home yesterday and noticed some serious dripping of fluid, from the power steering pump/radiator side. Looked below and everything was soaked with ps fluid. Looked up above and the pump was a little wet. The ac compressor wa covered with fluid and fluid had pooled in areas lower down in the engine compartment under the pump. The fluid resevior is empty.
So, I imagine the pump went. The hoses look old, but they don't appear to be leaking. Despite the underside of the car being wet, it's pretty clear if you take gravity into account that the leak is higher up. Underside of the pump maybe?
I'm not looking forward to pouring more fluid in to find the exact leak. What am I facing here?
I searched some of the threads here, but I didn't see one where the volume of fluid was like a major artery being severed.
Thanks for any tips and advice.
Bill Graham
#4
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I guess since you found a junkyard model you didn't have to remove the pulley. Do you happen to know how to remove the pulley and what kind of trouble I've have doing so?
My repair facility is my driveway, no garage or shelter at all, and no shop bench either.
Thanks.
My repair facility is my driveway, no garage or shelter at all, and no shop bench either.
Thanks.
#5
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I've never removed the pulley. Junkyard pumps are cheap -- maybe $15 to $20, with a 30 day 'guarantee'.
One thing about most Audi repairs, though, is that they require an amazing variety of tools.
One thing about most Audi repairs, though, is that they require an amazing variety of tools.
#6
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one of the 'O' rings under the caps with the crossed groves has blowen out.
Easy fix is to pull the pump and remove and replace the 'O' rings.
Removing the caps is best done with the pump in a vice and unscrew the caps by hitting them with a big screwdriver and a hammer. Once loose it is easy.
Stealer has a kit for $40 which is VERY expensive for eight 'O' rings but you MUST have the right size. Hardware store 'O' ring collections will not have the right size.
Go to you local parts store with your old rings to compare to. In their 'O' ring collection there will be a match in the green ones that are intended for AC systems. I have used these and the work and dont leak.
I think that the thicknesss of the ring is .092 - .094 inches. Cost > about $6.
Easy fix is to pull the pump and remove and replace the 'O' rings.
Removing the caps is best done with the pump in a vice and unscrew the caps by hitting them with a big screwdriver and a hammer. Once loose it is easy.
Stealer has a kit for $40 which is VERY expensive for eight 'O' rings but you MUST have the right size. Hardware store 'O' ring collections will not have the right size.
Go to you local parts store with your old rings to compare to. In their 'O' ring collection there will be a match in the green ones that are intended for AC systems. I have used these and the work and dont leak.
I think that the thicknesss of the ring is .092 - .094 inches. Cost > about $6.
#7
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Get the right tool for the job. You will need a drag link socket to remove the caps.
Chris at www.force5auto.com have a resealing kit for around $24.00 + Shipping<ul><li><a href="http://www.force5auto.com">Chris Force5auto</a></li></ul>
Chris at www.force5auto.com have a resealing kit for around $24.00 + Shipping<ul><li><a href="http://www.force5auto.com">Chris Force5auto</a></li></ul>
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#9
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if you sure it's a pump, I would recommend you just bite a bullet and buy a rebuilt unit - you can find it pretty cheap (around $90-$100), plus you'll be sure it's gonna work for a while (usually 50k miles or 3 years warranty).
All tools you will need to swap the pump is 13mm - mounting bolts and pulley bolts, 14,17,22mm sockets - banjo bolts, also it's a very good idea (almost mandatory) to replace crush washers (very cheap at dealer).
BTDT, just my 2 cents
Sergei Pokrovsky
All tools you will need to swap the pump is 13mm - mounting bolts and pulley bolts, 14,17,22mm sockets - banjo bolts, also it's a very good idea (almost mandatory) to replace crush washers (very cheap at dealer).
BTDT, just my 2 cents
Sergei Pokrovsky
#10
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It has worked very well for me with all three type 44s that I have owned.
But,
If you do choose to get new pump you need to identify it as a green or red tag. The difference is the sealing of the banjo bolts and the operating pressure. The banjo bolts on the later models have 'O' ring seals rather than the crush washers. They are, of course, quite a bit more pricy.
But,
If you do choose to get new pump you need to identify it as a green or red tag. The difference is the sealing of the banjo bolts and the operating pressure. The banjo bolts on the later models have 'O' ring seals rather than the crush washers. They are, of course, quite a bit more pricy.