boxerfan

Well, it took a while longer than expected but FrankenAudi is finally pushing 25 psi of boost. That's 2.7 bar boys! She starts to ping but only on occasion. I'm going to put the rising rate WUR back in her and see if that makes a difference. Then I'll try triggering the 6th injector a touch earlier too.

RR WUR : VW Audi part #: 035 133 403D
Bosch part #: 0 438 140 094?

Here's a brief synopsis:

The fuel pump bypass burned out 2 ECUs so I can't say I'd recommend it to anyone. Instead I used a 3.6 kOhm resistor mod on a QLCC'd ECU and have not managed to hit the fuel cut off... yet.

The 1.8 bar spring is turned down 2 full turns with the adjustment bolt and the shrapnel knobben is cracked open a touch.

The 6th injector is set to turn on at 1.9 bar at present. I'll be backing that off just a hair to 1.8 or 1.7 and see how that fairs.

Parts:
From a scrapped Audi:
1 - cold start injector fuel line. (This is the line that also connects to the Fuel filter)
1 - Waste Gate cap for modding with an M12 x 1.25 thread pitch bolt.
1 - MAC-11 ECU for adding a QLCC chip and a 3.6kOhm resistor mod.
1 - intake air temperature sensor.

From a scrapped SAAB:
1 - Cold start injector. Looks identical to the Audi part but flows twice as much fuel.

New parts:
1 - Large dual banjo bolt and washers
Several large and small fuel line gasket washers
1 - M12 x 1.25 thread pitch bolt
1 - M12 x 1.25 thread pitch nut (cut in half to reduce width)
1 - Pressure switch set to 1.9 bar (?)

Tools you might not have:
1 - tap and die set
1 - soldering iron
1 - solder sucker

With all that info and the pics in my picture poster you should be able to replicate what I have done.

By the way, I blew a hole in my brand new MM hose today so I duct taped up a spare and I'll be returning the new one to the dealer (1 year warranty).

Next up is a BOV or BPV set to activate when it sees the vacuum of a shift. Perhaps a new intercooler is a good idea while I'm at it.

Adam Mowafy

I would think an MC running 25 pounds of boost with only one extra injector and no change in fuel pressure would be a ticking time bomb. Which WUR are you going to use?

Im not saying I disapprove of your mods, you obviously have more ***** than I had when I had CIS. lol

But hey, I hope she holds together for ya. these cars have so much potential for performance, it just needs to be unlocked.


Keep me posted on what happens. Im curious to know.

Like I said before, I commend your efforts and taking the time to work with CIS

Oh and set my mind at ease and tell me you're using a bpv...

Black-Wolf

I wonder if the mc2 would be a better candidate for something like this as it has better knock sensors. I wouldnt push to 25 psi but 1.95 bar would be sweet.

boxerfan

I shimmed the fuel plunger as well, forgot to mention that (about 1mm). Shimming the plunger got me nice and rich up to the fuel cut out of the QLCC. That's when I started trying to add more fuel. It's amazing how quickly one gets used to the added power.

boxerfan

click

birdmanmt

k, so what are you using for your mixture readings? if it's narrow band be careful.

what turbo? k26? it's just a happy heat pump over 21psi. and if it's in the stock IC, well you know where i'm going with this.

I'm intrigued to see it works. now it's just a matter of how long it lasts with this setup.

skiddmark

MC 1 will take higher boost better because of the lower compression ratio.

selfproclaimedv8buff

trust me! if not, bye bye head gasket. trust me on this. BTDT! if you can buy one off the old 1981 BMW 745 turbo. get some adapters and thats a great oil cooler.

skiddmark

Things to remember are that the narrow band 02 sensors suck, but usually they seem to error on the side of rich.

Also I would try to find a cheap way to monitor your intake temps. At 25psi a k24/26 puts out a lot of heat and if you are using the stock IC it doesn't cool it back down all that well.

I know with my 034efi setup I can watch my intake temps rise pretty rapidly at 15psi on a long pull and I am using a stock IC core converted to single pass. But my filter is really crappy and too close to the turbo at the moment and I think I have a boost leak that I will be tracking down this weekend.

I just got a new K&N cone that flows 1000cfm's and some 3" piping to weld onto my throttle body for a much better seal for my silicon hose and to clear my fuel rail better. Then I hope to crank my boost up!!! I got the fuel for at least 25psi but I think I'll stick closer to 18psi to start.

Anyway good luck and keep up the good work pioneering your own way, just remember that the proper gauges can really help you keep from blowing things up.

birdmanmt

there are much bigger fish to fry before worrying about needing to upgrade that. just run good oil and make sure your head bolts are torqued properly.

i've been running in the 20+ psi range for almost 2 years now on the stock oil cooler with no problems.