weird ignition/starter problem....5kTQ
05-02-2002, 11:10 PM
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weird ignition/starter problem....5kTQ
yeah....
when i turn the key to start it, it just 'dings' (the audi ding noise) and then, after 10 seconds, the starter kicks in and off we go. but sometimes i turn the key to start it and nothing happens except idiot lights show up and the stereo goes on..........but 9 times out of 10 it will start up without too much fuss...and once it's started it's very happy.
chris
(finally fixed the fuel line!!! now i have a "custom" fuel line!!)
when i turn the key to start it, it just 'dings' (the audi ding noise) and then, after 10 seconds, the starter kicks in and off we go. but sometimes i turn the key to start it and nothing happens except idiot lights show up and the stereo goes on..........but 9 times out of 10 it will start up without too much fuss...and once it's started it's very happy.
chris
(finally fixed the fuel line!!! now i have a "custom" fuel line!!)
05-03-2002, 10:14 AM
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A possiblity is a weak alternator and/or battery...
Just had similar experiences.
Starts up fine in the AM, do some running around, not all the time but occasionally after a stop, I got no start. Try again maybe 20-30 sec or sometimes 10 minutes and it starts. Get a jump and she starts right up.
The original alternator was not keeping up with the current draw and was drawing the battery down.
Try this - with the engine running (at op temp), disconnect the battery. If alternator is good you should not notice a difference in idle right away. if engine stumbles and/or stalls immediately, you need a new alternator.
If idle is ok, start turning on accessories. max current output is around 2500-3000 rpm so you will notice a point where engine starts to stumble. It is at this point where the car starts to draw against the battery.
With more accessories running off a weak alternator, the greater the chance of draining down your battery to the point where it won't energize the ignition solenoid right away.
Replacing the alternator worked for me. If your battery is 3 or more years old, you may want to replace it too, or at least have it tested.
Another possibility - check the wires and connections to the solenoid/starter, you may have poor/dirty connections.
HTH
Tom S
85 5KS AVANT 203k miles
99.5 A4 1.8T QMS
Starts up fine in the AM, do some running around, not all the time but occasionally after a stop, I got no start. Try again maybe 20-30 sec or sometimes 10 minutes and it starts. Get a jump and she starts right up.
The original alternator was not keeping up with the current draw and was drawing the battery down.
Try this - with the engine running (at op temp), disconnect the battery. If alternator is good you should not notice a difference in idle right away. if engine stumbles and/or stalls immediately, you need a new alternator.
If idle is ok, start turning on accessories. max current output is around 2500-3000 rpm so you will notice a point where engine starts to stumble. It is at this point where the car starts to draw against the battery.
With more accessories running off a weak alternator, the greater the chance of draining down your battery to the point where it won't energize the ignition solenoid right away.
Replacing the alternator worked for me. If your battery is 3 or more years old, you may want to replace it too, or at least have it tested.
Another possibility - check the wires and connections to the solenoid/starter, you may have poor/dirty connections.
HTH
Tom S
85 5KS AVANT 203k miles
99.5 A4 1.8T QMS
05-03-2002, 11:30 AM
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I've been taught NEVER disconnect a battery on a running car because you can fry the Alternator.
but hey, what do I know...
potential suspects for our cars:
- Alternators are not the strongest, as Tom says. Later cars came with stronger ones (110amp instead of 90amp), get one of those if you replace it. There's also a Qlist dude who makes turbo rebuilds up to 150amp <a href="www.ultranator.com">Avi Meron's Ultranator</a>
- If your alternator was bad, it could have worn your battery out. I had this problem - got a used good Alt then still needed a battery to completely solve the problem.
- Finally, there is a big battery cable running from the engine compartment to the battery that is spliced in the pass. footwell. This splice gets corroded and won't conduct enough current to keep battery charged or to start the car if the battery is a little weak. This is easy to test, you just check volts in the engine compartment, and then back at the battery. See <a href="http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/electrical.html">Chris Miller's Electrics Page</a>
- If your battery / charging is all good, there is the potential of a bad starter, although not a usual weak point for us...
potential suspects for our cars:
- Alternators are not the strongest, as Tom says. Later cars came with stronger ones (110amp instead of 90amp), get one of those if you replace it. There's also a Qlist dude who makes turbo rebuilds up to 150amp <a href="www.ultranator.com">Avi Meron's Ultranator</a>
- If your alternator was bad, it could have worn your battery out. I had this problem - got a used good Alt then still needed a battery to completely solve the problem.
- Finally, there is a big battery cable running from the engine compartment to the battery that is spliced in the pass. footwell. This splice gets corroded and won't conduct enough current to keep battery charged or to start the car if the battery is a little weak. This is easy to test, you just check volts in the engine compartment, and then back at the battery. See <a href="http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/electrical.html">Chris Miller's Electrics Page</a>
- If your battery / charging is all good, there is the potential of a bad starter, although not a usual weak point for us...
05-04-2002, 05:43 AM
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Or maybe the little wire going to the solenoid on the starter...
These can get corroded/frayed, and every Type 44 I have seen either has a patch job done or is in need of one.
-Steve Jensen
87 5kcstq
-Steve Jensen
87 5kcstq
05-04-2002, 06:56 AM
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Can't comment directly as not aware of that situation ...
I just never fried one of mine, but that doesn't mean much either.
It would be very interesting and informative to learn of any electrical reasons why or how an alternator may/will fry if the battery is disconnected while at idle with little or no load.
Tom
It would be very interesting and informative to learn of any electrical reasons why or how an alternator may/will fry if the battery is disconnected while at idle with little or no load.
Tom
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