well she finally died..
02-24-2006, 02:50 PM
#1
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well she finally died..
rolled 290k miles and blew the head gasket.guess I know what i'm doing this weekend :P anything i should do while its tore down? i figure it did fine for the miles.
02-24-2006, 03:37 PM
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A few things
Check valve guides and replace any that are out of spec
R&R -
valve stem seals
noisy lifters
right engine mount.
timing belt
water pump
tensioner pulley
head bolts with washers
Mill exhaust manifold and matching face on head
Check turbo endplay
Ensure center diff lock servo works.
R&R -
valve stem seals
noisy lifters
right engine mount.
timing belt
water pump
tensioner pulley
head bolts with washers
Mill exhaust manifold and matching face on head
Check turbo endplay
Ensure center diff lock servo works.
02-24-2006, 03:45 PM
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Re: A few things
well i have the mc2 so according to the manual the head bolts dont need replacing. there is no dif lock servo. I will check the mount, hadnt thought of that one. turbo has been checked its ok for now. it has a tiny bit of oil leaking. I cant afford to replace it right now. water pump, t-belt are a given. lifters seem ok but i was planning on checking them. I noticed that in the book it calls for a special tool for the valve locks.. is there a way around that? i havent tore it down yet so I dont know.
02-24-2006, 04:10 PM
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I'd replace the head bolts
I forget the physics, but each time that you stretch a fastener as far as head bolts get stretched, the fastener loses some of its ability to return to its original length. See Carroll Smith. If it were me, I'd replace them. They're cheap enough.
Valve locks? What are those? Valve keepers? A magnet on a stick is handy. Order a couple extra; you're sure to lose one or two. You'll need some sort of tool to disassemble the head. I borrowed a neat one from a VW mechanic who used to use it on Rabbits (a 4-cyl version of our I5).
Check local head rebuild shops. Good ones will do dozens of heads a week and will already have done many Rabbits. They'll disassemble, clean, install guides as needed, do a 3-angle valve job, reassemble head. They provide this service to car dealers and repair shops, including pickup and delivery, usually with a 3-day turnaround. There's economy of scale there which you can't beat. Here, typical head rebuild for I5 is $250 by the leading head rebuild shop.
Find out which shop rebuilds the heads for most of the good car dealers in your area, and use them. (Shops that do bad head work won't keep the top dealerships' business for long.)<ul><li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0879384069/ref=sib_rdr_dp/103-5818895-5567821?%5Fencoding=UTF8&me=ATVPDKIKX0DER& no=283155&st=books&n=283155">Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook</a></li></ul>
Valve locks? What are those? Valve keepers? A magnet on a stick is handy. Order a couple extra; you're sure to lose one or two. You'll need some sort of tool to disassemble the head. I borrowed a neat one from a VW mechanic who used to use it on Rabbits (a 4-cyl version of our I5).
Check local head rebuild shops. Good ones will do dozens of heads a week and will already have done many Rabbits. They'll disassemble, clean, install guides as needed, do a 3-angle valve job, reassemble head. They provide this service to car dealers and repair shops, including pickup and delivery, usually with a 3-day turnaround. There's economy of scale there which you can't beat. Here, typical head rebuild for I5 is $250 by the leading head rebuild shop.
Find out which shop rebuilds the heads for most of the good car dealers in your area, and use them. (Shops that do bad head work won't keep the top dealerships' business for long.)<ul><li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0879384069/ref=sib_rdr_dp/103-5818895-5567821?%5Fencoding=UTF8&me=ATVPDKIKX0DER& no=283155&st=books&n=283155">Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook</a></li></ul>
02-24-2006, 04:32 PM
#6
Re: I'd replace the head bolts
I got my head done, EM welded and planed, IM planed, cyl head mating surfaces resurfaced, full gasket set including the multilayer metal HG, 40mm intake valves all for $400 CDN (that actually included turning the rear rotors for my V8).
I bought a Valve tool at crappy tire and it didn't work for the Audi head at all. I agree with previous posts if you decide to tackle this yourself try and rent from a local shop. I threw up my hands and said screw it... for the $400 the time saved is huge.
I decided to order the ARP head studs as well instead of going for factory bolts. "...bolts are an accountant's decision, studs are an engineer's decision" (C. Bell). The physics behind it are simple enough and obvious once explained well.
I bought a Valve tool at crappy tire and it didn't work for the Audi head at all. I agree with previous posts if you decide to tackle this yourself try and rent from a local shop. I threw up my hands and said screw it... for the $400 the time saved is huge.
I decided to order the ARP head studs as well instead of going for factory bolts. "...bolts are an accountant's decision, studs are an engineer's decision" (C. Bell). The physics behind it are simple enough and obvious once explained well.
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02-24-2006, 04:37 PM
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yea i would like to stud it but..
I think what i am going to do is get it together and make it run, back the boost down a bit and drive it. I have an extra mc2 that runs good. I think I am going to pull it down and do a complete rebuild this summer including reinforcing it to hold 25+ psi. Metal head gasket, studs, arp bolts, porting, polishing, the works. might even if funds allow do efi on it. tho the cis is working great.
02-24-2006, 04:43 PM
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Good fastener article
I just like reading this sort of stuff. The article below discusses fasteners in general, especially when applied to the task of clamping a cylinder head on to a high performance engine block. Good refs and sidebars, too:<ul><li><a href="http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb50347.htm">http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb50347.htm</a</li></ul>
02-24-2006, 04:47 PM
#10
Re: yea i would like to stud it but..
IMO... Save the EFI money for a single pass IC and 3"-3.5" exhaust. Dial in the CIS and add the 6th injector. Those SAAB units are good for 4psi extra and even without adjusting each injector line on the CIS dizzy I was hitting 21PSI on good days. Dial those up and get the heck out of my way! LOL... soon...
Yea... I'm on my way to the complete motor job. The top end stuff is all ready to go. I need to get the bottom end done up next. Thinking about some 8.5:1 CR pistons. The M-M HG shoudl drop the CR slightly so 8.2 to 8.3 would be perfect. Then smack the air in with the Rs2 replica and reinstate the FrankenAudi mods.... Yipeeeeee.... uberboosting from throttle application to redline all day long.
Yea... I'm on my way to the complete motor job. The top end stuff is all ready to go. I need to get the bottom end done up next. Thinking about some 8.5:1 CR pistons. The M-M HG shoudl drop the CR slightly so 8.2 to 8.3 would be perfect. Then smack the air in with the Rs2 replica and reinstate the FrankenAudi mods.... Yipeeeeee.... uberboosting from throttle application to redline all day long.