jakwi

Does anybody know what size the hub nut is for a 1986 5000s wagon? I think it's like 25mm or something. I'm headed to the tool store to get the tools I need and I can't find the size anywhere.

BTW I heard that there is a tool from snapon that will allow you to change the wheelbearing with out removing the strut. Has anyone ever used it? is it worth it?

RussB

Pep Boys stocks a variety of 29mm and larger deep impact sockets. They're black in color and bubble packed separately. 1/2" drive. You'll need to apply lots of torque to the wheel nut to break it loose. I've snapped a new 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar on this nut. A Mac Tools breaker bar, with me standing on it, survived. Now I use a very heavy duty impact wrench.

The lug bolts are 17mm heads.

tonyj

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OLD-7325.html

jakwi

I wish I could afford this, but I just can't. Pulling the strut is a lot more work, but my labor is free. Oh well. I bought a tie rod separator tool from harbor freight for 5.99, and a set of three arm pullers (to separate the drive shaft from the hub) for 19.99, not to bad.
I'll probably take the whole strut to a shop to have the bearing pressed in.

jakwi

I'll look for the socket. Is it true that the torque is like 160ft lbs? My torque wrench only goes to 90 I think. Maybe I can rent one. I'll have to get a breaker bar too. damn this is getting expensive..

RussB

Autozone "rents" many special tools. You pay them the price of the tool, use it, and return it within 30 days and they refund all your money.

Their "Pittman arm separator" (I think they call it) works perfectly to separate our tie rods with no damage. They "rent" it for $21. I first tried gentle pounding with a hammer with no luck. BTDT

RussB

I forget the torque spec but I think that it's greater than 160 lb-ft; more like 220 lb-ft (but don't rely upon my sketchy memory!).

You do have a shop manual, don't you? It will contain the correct torque values for this and all other critical fasteners throughout the car. The Haynes manual, which is only about $16, is nice because at the front of each section all fastener torques are printed on one page.

Sears sells a good Craftsman 1/2" click type torque wrench with a 250 lb-ft maximum for about $90.

One last thing: I forget the exact reasoning, but you should replace the axle nut each time it's removed. (CV joint boot kits include a new axle nut for this reason.) I forget if some sort of loctite is spec'd for this nut. (Another reason to have a shop manual.)

RussB

Surprisingly, the axle usually separates easily from the hub without the need for a puller.

Will Ng

Autozone also has torque wrench and breaker bars for loan.

tonyj

The times I have done this I have used a four foot pipe over the 1/2 inch 24 inch breaker bar to break loose. Tightening, I just jump on the breaker bar until it doesn't move any more. May not be the right torque but haven't had a problem.
I figure that anyone who is capable of doing this job is aware of the sounds and feeling of their car enough so that they are aware when something is changing or loosening and where to look for the problem. Sort of like being 'at one' with your ride.