vwdmc16

lol awesome, i wish i had Awd in the van, cause we all know AWD is good for things, and stuff.


i got some more pics, i spent about 12hrs on it today, making up for the 2 months that i havent touched it. thanks for anwsering my boost question. where does one get the ecu chipped? the engines PO said it has a rebuilt head (it is cleaner than the block) and turbo, and the reason he got the car was the waste gate diaphram had ruptured, so that is supposedly fixed too, i havent done much of any work on the engine besides getting the injectors cleaned and balanced. so i think i got a flywheel that will work its from a '86 NA 5000 so i need to swap the trigger wheel from the flex plate to the flywheel the turbo engine was an auto originally, i already got the old pilot bushing out. as you can see there are no other accesories off the engine, im going to use a mazda miata alternator ( i have a bunch of free ones) and thats about it, probably no powersteering, though i may use a PS pump to run hydualic acsesories like soiler/air brake or maybe lifting rams for tire changes.

now the engine mounts are in i can start on the cage, tne either the engine or front suspension is next, keep in mind i and only i am the person building this car, so its taking awhile after being tired from a 40hr work week of generally the same work

vwdmc16

heres the engine mounts, my goal is to make it easy to be able to drop the engine out from below with the subframe too, it would be impossible to get a hoist in there with the cage.
so the left side hangs from above




and the right had to go below so the exhaust could be big and free flowing, but 4 bolts remove the little cup.



also cleaned off alot of tar and oil, the van had previously been a mobile reair shop so it was soaked with greasy parts







check out the sick *** bumper i made, only took 4 hrs of drilling its a '84 Volvo 242 rear bumper, weighs about 10 lbs where the stock toy weighs 55lbs. then after holes the sweedish iron weighs 7.5 and just looks cooler, used the stock van bumper brackets. also cut in a little homage to the Audi power with the 1 1/4" hole saw. but all the holes are gut vanity, i actually need more weight in the rear, righ now with the gutted from end it still is 54/46% F/R @ 2160lbs with alot more to go up front.



old toy bumper









thought you audi guys might apreciate this



also i ordered a Hanyes maunal should be in next week

Blue44

I can't believe this.. Incredible

It looks like you have much to go

but in any case here is where you can get your chip and boost spring upgrade.

I believe the email is now at verizon instead of comcast. He's a really nice guy who does this work on the side and always responds to emails within a day or two.
http://www.gtquattro.com/boostin.html

vwdmc16

so the cage work has begun with one base plate, caught the van on fire a few times at the same time.







then i looked at the engine a bit more and found it wont turn over 360' it will go about 340' and stop, its #1 cylinder tahts hitting something, so i stuck my diagnostic fiber optic probe down the spark plug hole and found it was rather rusty, and when its about to get to TDC it stops, now i thought it was timed wrong so i took the belt off but its not hitting any valves. so ill be taking off the head then

so where does one align the cam wheel timing mark? 12 o' clock??

hdmyers

why isn't my p/s rack so easy to get to? fricken audieee

vwdmc16

well the orginal engine made it hard to work an much in front of it, thr rack had to be removed to pull the radiator.

vwdmc16

ok so i got my haynes manual, it helps but man those wiring diagrams really suck. seems im missing more than i thought. why does the damn thing have to have CIS 3???

so that engine siezing thing is quite a problem, anyone have any idea?? other wise im takeing off the head.


also the manual does NOT say where the cam wheel needs to be when reattaching the belt. where does the dimple point to ???

cuatrokoop

There's a mark on the back side of the cam cog, it aligns with the upper edge of the valve cover gasket on the "driver side" (IE the spark plug side).

Set the crank with the marks on the flywheel, not the crank pulley. I've seen too many crank pulleys be waaay off.

Blue44

I'll second that.. I have seen some flywheels off as well. I've always checked top dead center of cylinder number one (nearest front of the car) by sticking a dial indicator down the spark plug hole.. A long screw driver might help also instead of the dial indicator down the spark plug hole.

(at the dealer we always set TDC to the crank and then checked the flywheel though.. it always seemed "close enough")

vwdmc16

cool i can do that, after i pull the head. so i didnt get any work done on it this weekend, i came it sat but i had to operate the dyno for a customer ans it didnt want to work, when that was done i didnt feel like working.