1990 Audi 80 running problems
#21
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Soo, no ecu codes. That stinks. I realized tho that when I start it it will idle fine for a bit, but then when I touch the throttle it wants to die, probably from flooding.
Also, it was idling fine soo I dunno really WHY i did it, but I pulled the plug on the IAV and boom, it instantly wanted to die like it wasnt getting any air at all, opened up the throttle and it came back to "life".
Still havent gotten to the o2 sensor yet, so that may still be the issue here but just giving you guys a bit more info on it.
From what I read about the CIS it seems like the control pressure is the problem. Its almost like its too low and allowing too much fuel in. Soo o2 sensor I guess?
I keep thinking more and more about just Megasquirting this damn thing and being done with it.
any thoughts on that?
Also, it was idling fine soo I dunno really WHY i did it, but I pulled the plug on the IAV and boom, it instantly wanted to die like it wasnt getting any air at all, opened up the throttle and it came back to "life".
Still havent gotten to the o2 sensor yet, so that may still be the issue here but just giving you guys a bit more info on it.
From what I read about the CIS it seems like the control pressure is the problem. Its almost like its too low and allowing too much fuel in. Soo o2 sensor I guess?
I keep thinking more and more about just Megasquirting this damn thing and being done with it.
any thoughts on that?
#22
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Not even sure what mega squirting is. Have ya pulled the intake boot and looked down your throttlebody to make sure the butterflies are working, and clean?
#23
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Megasquirt is a stand alone ECU. I had thought about doing it to my Eclipse when I had it, and my Starion, and now this. It would be pretty sweet as it would change it from the CIS injection system to a modern Electronic injection. That would be what megasquirt is
But yeah, my throttle valves are working, a tad dirty, but working.
But yeah, my throttle valves are working, a tad dirty, but working.
#24
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Megasquirt is a stand alone ECU. I had thought about doing it to my Eclipse when I had it, and my Starion, and now this. It would be pretty sweet as it would change it from the CIS injection system to a modern Electronic injection. That would be what megasquirt is
But yeah, my throttle valves are working, a tad dirty, but working.
But yeah, my throttle valves are working, a tad dirty, but working.
Might try cleanin em and runnin a bit o the seafoam directly into your intake off a vac line, not a lot of it just a lil then let it sit for 15-30 before ya start it back up to burn it off, you'll need a friend to help ya prolly. And yeah that'd prolly fix it but also costly. Oh the seafoam most likely won't fix your problem it does sound like a bad injector set, but if ya have the seafoam and the old sparkplugs ya might do that just to clean everything up a bit works pretty well
Last edited by Harowing; 01-28-2010 at 09:42 AM.
#25
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>:O
Ok... so what is this part thats circled? I unplugged it and now it actually runs better than ever, throttle response is still leaving something to be desired, BUT, its running?
Im thinking this is the regulator for the control pressure. If control pressure is too low then that would cause my flooding and everything else... But, now, why would control pressure be too low?
Could a dirty fuel filter cause THIS many problems? I think the guy I bought it from said he had replaced it. then replaced the whole injector distributor, knock sensor, and possibly o2 as well. I dunno anymore. Arg.
Im thinking this is the regulator for the control pressure. If control pressure is too low then that would cause my flooding and everything else... But, now, why would control pressure be too low?
Could a dirty fuel filter cause THIS many problems? I think the guy I bought it from said he had replaced it. then replaced the whole injector distributor, knock sensor, and possibly o2 as well. I dunno anymore. Arg.
#26
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Well from what I can see that's the fuel dist regulator, it recieves and processes all the info from o2 n such, so yeah that being unplugged would cause alotta problems lol basically unplugged makes everything run at full rich, or so it seems anyways, try a new set of Bosch w7dtc plugs I believe it is and run some premium in it that should help your power problem but that looked like a 4cyl so power is way limited atleast if it's the 3a engine
#27
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See, tho, read my post again and UNPLUGGING it helped the car out, having it plugged in was the problem. Having it unplugged helped it lean out. Sooo... I dunno man, wierd.
#29
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Ok, soooo, I replaced the fuel filter, installed it the right away, there is a new pump on the vehicle as well that the previous owner put on. There is no o2 sensor on this car.
I also replaced that part I circled earlier with another one I had laying around, same result if not a tad worse.
I did a voltage test on that plug and its a constant 5v even at operating temp, the cold start bypass valve is also at battery voltage, but the cold start injector isnt seeing any voltage.
Soo Im thinking the thermo time switch may but stuck in the grounded position, minus that injector... which also gets its voltage from that thermo time switch....
But I dunno, got a haynes too, its not very helpful lol.
I guess my next course of action would be to check all the fuses as was mentiuoned before but I forgot about, and then to pull the thermo time switch and boil it and check for continuity.
I guess my next real question is this.... Could that little thingy I circled earlier be the cold start regulator? Cuz I see nothing else on the block that has a fuel line from it. And if it is the cold start regulator then, theoretically I could easily drive without it plugged in right??
Also, I adjusted the mixture screw to some MINOR success when that thingy is plugged in. And even better sucess with it unplugged, got throttle response back, and being its winter, less condensed fuel coming out the tail pipe. Sooo Im getting closer to tuning it out. Now I just NEED to know what that thing is.
Anyone that can tell me what that thing is will have my eternal praise.
I also replaced that part I circled earlier with another one I had laying around, same result if not a tad worse.
I did a voltage test on that plug and its a constant 5v even at operating temp, the cold start bypass valve is also at battery voltage, but the cold start injector isnt seeing any voltage.
Soo Im thinking the thermo time switch may but stuck in the grounded position, minus that injector... which also gets its voltage from that thermo time switch....
But I dunno, got a haynes too, its not very helpful lol.
I guess my next course of action would be to check all the fuses as was mentiuoned before but I forgot about, and then to pull the thermo time switch and boil it and check for continuity.
I guess my next real question is this.... Could that little thingy I circled earlier be the cold start regulator? Cuz I see nothing else on the block that has a fuel line from it. And if it is the cold start regulator then, theoretically I could easily drive without it plugged in right??
Also, I adjusted the mixture screw to some MINOR success when that thingy is plugged in. And even better sucess with it unplugged, got throttle response back, and being its winter, less condensed fuel coming out the tail pipe. Sooo Im getting closer to tuning it out. Now I just NEED to know what that thing is.
Anyone that can tell me what that thing is will have my eternal praise.
#30
OK, it sounds like you are just playing around with things without even knowing what they are. I know you want to get it running yesterday, but as someone else said earlier, playing around can get things so far from 'good' that it is hard to get it back where it needs to be.
Here is a diagram of the fuel system on the 5 cyl. You obviously have a 4 cyl from the pic you posted above. They are similar, not identical.
https://forums.audiworld.com/picture...ictureid=78861
The item you circled (people cannot see your circle without opening and viewing your photo above) is not the "cold start regulator." Does it look like this? Photo Below (in this photo, the side showing is the side that attaches to the Fuel Distribution System) (hard to see well in your photo). If so, it is the Differential Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Here are the specs to the Fuel Pressure:
SYSTEM OPERATING PRESSURE . . . 6.1-6.5 bar (85-95 psi)
SYSTEM REST PRESSURE . . . . . 3.4 bar (49 psi) minimum
DIFFERENTIAL PRESSURE [1] . . . 1.2-1.5 bar (17-22 psi)
INJECTOR OPENING PRESSURE . . . 4.3-4.6 bar (63-68 psi)
. . . . .> [1] Warm engine; Oxygen sensor connected; Differential pressure regulator current, nominal 0-5mA positive current and varying, @ idle.
As you can see, the Oxygen Sensor feeds into the system and affects the Differntial Pressure current. If you haven't checked the Oxygen Sensor yet, then you could be wasting your time with the other stuff.
Did I read that "there is no Oxygen Sensor on this car?" Um. There is. Or there should be.
Did you say that you are operating it without the air filter? The system is designed to work with all parts connected/installed at all times. Leaving things out only makes matters worse.
Try to get everything installed, connected, working as it should.
Then try to hunt down your problem.
Otherwise, you are creating more circles to run in with each new disconnect or omitted part.
Here is a thorough checklist of maintanence items for a poorly running Audi 80/90: http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tuning-cise.htm
Well, good luck.
Here is a diagram of the fuel system on the 5 cyl. You obviously have a 4 cyl from the pic you posted above. They are similar, not identical.
https://forums.audiworld.com/picture...ictureid=78861
The item you circled (people cannot see your circle without opening and viewing your photo above) is not the "cold start regulator." Does it look like this? Photo Below (in this photo, the side showing is the side that attaches to the Fuel Distribution System) (hard to see well in your photo). If so, it is the Differential Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Here are the specs to the Fuel Pressure:
SYSTEM OPERATING PRESSURE . . . 6.1-6.5 bar (85-95 psi)
SYSTEM REST PRESSURE . . . . . 3.4 bar (49 psi) minimum
DIFFERENTIAL PRESSURE [1] . . . 1.2-1.5 bar (17-22 psi)
INJECTOR OPENING PRESSURE . . . 4.3-4.6 bar (63-68 psi)
. . . . .> [1] Warm engine; Oxygen sensor connected; Differential pressure regulator current, nominal 0-5mA positive current and varying, @ idle.
As you can see, the Oxygen Sensor feeds into the system and affects the Differntial Pressure current. If you haven't checked the Oxygen Sensor yet, then you could be wasting your time with the other stuff.
Did I read that "there is no Oxygen Sensor on this car?" Um. There is. Or there should be.
Did you say that you are operating it without the air filter? The system is designed to work with all parts connected/installed at all times. Leaving things out only makes matters worse.
Try to get everything installed, connected, working as it should.
Then try to hunt down your problem.
Otherwise, you are creating more circles to run in with each new disconnect or omitted part.
Here is a thorough checklist of maintanence items for a poorly running Audi 80/90: http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tuning-cise.htm
Well, good luck.