1995 Audi 90 2.8
11-28-2005, 06:16 PM
#2
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2.8 in a '95 is very simliar to '96-early '98s with the 12V V6 except for OBDI/OBD II differences...
...check <A HREF="http://www.12v.org">12v.org</A>
11-28-2005, 07:27 PM
#5
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Thanks for the link. Now.. if I had a line on a 90 that had these issues:
1. Burns oil.
2. Runs hot.
What would you guys think?
165k on it, so I would guess TB needs to be done like about yesterday.
Burning oil could be leaks or actual burning, the car is a 95. This would be my daily driver while my A4 is down for trans replacement.
2. Runs hot.
What would you guys think?
165k on it, so I would guess TB needs to be done like about yesterday.
Burning oil could be leaks or actual burning, the car is a 95. This would be my daily driver while my A4 is down for trans replacement.
11-28-2005, 07:37 PM
#6
The 12v A4 and late 12v 90 both use the AFC code, 10:1 CR 2.8L engine...
The AFC was rated at 174hp and 180lb-ft, the AHA (2.8L 30v) was rated at 193hp and 200? lb-ft of torque. The older AAH was 174hp and 184lb-ft, and was 10.3:1 CR (hence the torque bump).
11-28-2005, 07:45 PM
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Runs hot? Could be a lot of things...bad t-stat, clogged cooling system, bad water pump...
...burns oil? Bad valve guide seals? A properly maintained car Audi shouldn't burn oil, 165k or not...perhaps the oil wasn't changed on a regular basis. I'd look for a better maintained car if it were me...
Although the really early V6s (mostly '92-'93s) were known for valve guide seals going south...
Although the really early V6s (mostly '92-'93s) were known for valve guide seals going south...
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11-28-2005, 07:48 PM
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issues:
older 12v's leak like a sive (oil). There are many write ups regarding fixing various parts that might be oil-leaky culprits. These include but are not limited to:
valve cover gaskets
head gaskets
rear camshaft seals
valley pan seal
front and/or rear mail oil seal
valve stem seals
and more....
as you can see, we've rehashed the oil issue fairly regularely. Basically you will chase an oil leak until you decide to pull the motor and perform a 100% rebuild. It's also not uncommon for these engines to burn a small amount of oil... it's actually typical of any older motor. do you know HOW much oil it burns? that's an important question/answer
as for running hot, could be a couple things. Stuck or broken thermostat is most likely culprit. Next would be to make sure the cooling fans activate at the appropriate temperatures. This problem can be attributed to any one of a number of relays, or else a temp sensor switch located in your radiator. Might also be that the rad is plugged/gummed up and not seeing an adequate flow of coolant in order to supress engine temperatures.
valve cover gaskets
head gaskets
rear camshaft seals
valley pan seal
front and/or rear mail oil seal
valve stem seals
and more....
as you can see, we've rehashed the oil issue fairly regularely. Basically you will chase an oil leak until you decide to pull the motor and perform a 100% rebuild. It's also not uncommon for these engines to burn a small amount of oil... it's actually typical of any older motor. do you know HOW much oil it burns? that's an important question/answer
as for running hot, could be a couple things. Stuck or broken thermostat is most likely culprit. Next would be to make sure the cooling fans activate at the appropriate temperatures. This problem can be attributed to any one of a number of relays, or else a temp sensor switch located in your radiator. Might also be that the rad is plugged/gummed up and not seeing an adequate flow of coolant in order to supress engine temperatures.
