fjasper

http://www.2bennett.com/

Stock brakes with new pads and rotors.

I'm kind of content to stay in a class that doesn't allow too many mods, that way I can hopefully afford enough tires and entry fees to learn how to drive. I went to an EVO school and got to ride along while an instructor drove my car, and it's clear that there's a lot of room for me to improve before the car becomes the limiting factor.

cuatrokoop

I set them the same when cold (45-50 on street tires, 35-40 on R's), then drop pressure from there as they build heat (or rather, don't build), going lower until I get too much temp, or too much roll on the sidewall. I don't have a temp gauge I can use with the tires right now (laser or actual tire temp/pyrometer).

There are several places that sell the sleeves for the strut body and spring perch hardware. Ground Control being one of them, possibly Shine Racing?

I would not go with more than 400lbs on a B3 that sees any sort of street driving, it will become a bone jarring, teeth rattling ride if you much beyond that. Plus, the readily available, off the shelf dampers will have problems going much higher than that with out custom valving...

B4's are a little trickier since they have the "new" rear suspension (A4/A6 has the same design), and as such needs different damping rates and spring rates than a B3 with the Chapman strut out back. Pretty sure the revised rear suspension can take a great deal more spring rate and be compliant.

You can't compare tire pressures between a nose heavy AWD car and a very well balanced RWD car, they need different tire widths at different ends, they need different air pressures, spring rates, etc.