90-91 90 sedan versus the other years
12-31-2005, 08:02 AM
#1
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90-91 90 sedan versus the other years
We have two Audis and was looking at a smaller late model like the 90Q sedan for my mom who might move back from Florida to Colorado.
Any comments on how the 90-91 model years compare to the newer models with the V6 or the older models with the 130hp 20V?
I've heard that the 90Q coupe is more expensive maintenance wise (from two local Audi Club friends who own them). I've also heard the 20V is more bullet proof from none other than John Beckius who writes for the Audi Club mag.
What do y'all think?
Any comments on how the 90-91 model years compare to the newer models with the V6 or the older models with the 130hp 20V?
I've heard that the 90Q coupe is more expensive maintenance wise (from two local Audi Club friends who own them). I've also heard the 20V is more bullet proof from none other than John Beckius who writes for the Audi Club mag.
What do y'all think?
12-31-2005, 08:32 AM
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Im biased, but the 20V is worth going for.
As far expensive maintainance, I wouldnt know. I DIY for almost everything but I can imagine either carsw ould be expensive if you took them to a dealer.
12-31-2005, 08:34 AM
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A '90/'91 90q 20V should be about the same cost to maintain as a CQ...
...CQs are just a little more rare. A 130HP 10V is a solid car. The later V6 90s are excellent cars and I haven't had much go wrong with any of the ones I own (outside of standard wear and tear items, timing belts, etc). I've owned 4 12V V6 cars and honestly, the later the engine, the more refined it is. If you were looking at one, I'd say find as late as a '93-'95 90 you can (the earlier the 12V the more oil leaks they have - which isn't a big deal if you're a DIYer).
In Colorado 80s & 90s always seem to pop up...just give it time. Rememeber a '88 through a '92 80 quattro is the same as a '88 through '91 90 just a slightly lower trim level.
In Colorado 80s & 90s always seem to pop up...just give it time. Rememeber a '88 through a '92 80 quattro is the same as a '88 through '91 90 just a slightly lower trim level.
12-31-2005, 08:54 AM
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Another thought to consider too is..
...there are a LOT more 10V and 12V cars running around out there over the 20V (as it was only brought here for 2 model years). You can be guaranteed to see a 10V or 12V car in a yard long before a 20V...so...just another thought to consider if you plan on maintaining the car.
12-31-2005, 09:17 AM
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Let's put it this way...
I was just faced with a similar choice myself. I am a CQ owner for several years now. The 20V motor is most definitely a bulletproof motor. It has decent power and has never failed on me yet. The car itself does require maintenance, but as I address each section or subsystem of the car my maintenance is going down.
With that said, I wanted a second Audi for daily driving and mild upgrades while I go full swing into the CQ for a project. My 2 choices were a B4 90 (V6) or a B3 20V 90. I chose the 90 20V 90 because the car was an excellent price for its condition, the motor is identical in almost every way to the CQ, so once I have the CQ built I can do a full rebuild on the 90 with all the parts from both motors. It will also serve me in the time of emergency, as I'll always have a working second car to rape in a short notice time of need. Most importantly though, the motor has never let me down once. I know I can depend on it. For the mild increase in power vs the extra weight, I saw the B3 20V a sportier car as well.
With that said, I wanted a second Audi for daily driving and mild upgrades while I go full swing into the CQ for a project. My 2 choices were a B4 90 (V6) or a B3 20V 90. I chose the 90 20V 90 because the car was an excellent price for its condition, the motor is identical in almost every way to the CQ, so once I have the CQ built I can do a full rebuild on the 90 with all the parts from both motors. It will also serve me in the time of emergency, as I'll always have a working second car to rape in a short notice time of need. Most importantly though, the motor has never let me down once. I know I can depend on it. For the mild increase in power vs the extra weight, I saw the B3 20V a sportier car as well.
12-31-2005, 03:08 PM
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20v's are coooool
I love the styling of the B3. B4 90's The 20v is solid and proven in many examples of people with miles easily in the 200k to 300k. I am biased and I will be missing my 20v. I shall return one day and buy another
Hope she treats you well man.
GO 20V and get one with good service records!
Hope she treats you well man.GO 20V and get one with good service records!
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12-31-2005, 05:43 PM
#8
My current daily driver is a 10v....
The 20v, mechanically, is bullet proof as are any VAG 5cyl engine. However, some electrical components (injectors) are not so nice. Other maladies also affect the 10v and 12v versions (electronic climate, strut mounts) just as they do the 20v.
The other big ticket item on the 20v would be the brake pressure assist system, aka the bomb, a nitrogen charged pressure accumulator. Tiny, failure prone once the cars hit about 100k miles, and stupid expensive as are any N2 filled accumulator. Normally the bladder fails and the N2 charge bleeds into the central hydraulic system, eventually making its way to the CHS reservoir. The same system is used on the Type44 turbo (and some non-turbo versions such as my 5kq) and the urq. Again, the thing fails on those cars too.
I consider most other problems pretty normal for an older, electrical device intensive (for its day) car, like bulbs, switches, senders, etc failing. Ball joints and bushings are also about done by the time most of us buy these things at 100k miles or more.
The other big ticket item on the 20v would be the brake pressure assist system, aka the bomb, a nitrogen charged pressure accumulator. Tiny, failure prone once the cars hit about 100k miles, and stupid expensive as are any N2 filled accumulator. Normally the bladder fails and the N2 charge bleeds into the central hydraulic system, eventually making its way to the CHS reservoir. The same system is used on the Type44 turbo (and some non-turbo versions such as my 5kq) and the urq. Again, the thing fails on those cars too.
I consider most other problems pretty normal for an older, electrical device intensive (for its day) car, like bulbs, switches, senders, etc failing. Ball joints and bushings are also about done by the time most of us buy these things at 100k miles or more.
