93 audi 90 dash lights out, parking lights out, glove box lights out
03-13-2012, 02:54 PM
#11
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6 bucks it must be the Meyle switch which has a quick failure rate.
The OEM switch is wholesale at $16, $38.50 dealer.
http://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM/...rch=4A0905849B
The OEM switch is wholesale at $16, $38.50 dealer.
http://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM/...rch=4A0905849B
03-14-2012, 06:45 AM
#13
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Replacing the switch is very easy, so at least see if the cheap aftermarket switch fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then just stick the stock one back in. If the switch has never been changed in the life of the car, the set screw that holds the switch in place will be covered with a yellow goo/glue like substance. You have to use a small pick or screwdriver to scrape out the goo and get access to the set screw. Once removed, the switch slides right out and unplugs.
03-14-2012, 01:01 PM
#14
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Unless mine was changed by the original owner [and I have all records, nothing recorded] I still have my original switch going on 18+ years and it works without issue.
I must have a golden sample or something.
I do keep my keychain light, I have no doubt heavy chains put extra strain on the switch which might wear it our prematurely.
I must have a golden sample or something.
I do keep my keychain light, I have no doubt heavy chains put extra strain on the switch which might wear it our prematurely.
03-14-2012, 03:54 PM
#15
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the part arrived today! it is meyle;
a quick look at the back reveals why it's only $6. so much for 'german engineering.' i'll be sure to order an audi-factory part next time and pay a bit more.
a quick look at the back reveals why it's only $6. so much for 'german engineering.' i'll be sure to order an audi-factory part next time and pay a bit more.
03-14-2012, 05:44 PM
#16
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An esteemed AW/QW member did some research on the switches and found little to no difference between the failure rate of the newer OEM and Meyle switches. Besides, it takes 10 minutes to change a switch so you'll be just fine with paying $6.00 Vs. $40.00.
03-17-2012, 03:57 PM
#18
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it turns out replacing the ignition switch isn't as straightforward as it first appears, so i've taken some photos to show the tricky parts to help anyone who might have to do this in the future.
first, you must also remove the dash gauge cluster in order to access the set screws that hold the ignition switch in place from the top. this is straightforward as two screws under the steering column will remove the top half of the column, which then gives you access to the two lower screws that holds the dash gauge cluster in place.
second, in order to remove the kneepad trim, you must remove the two interior trim plugs that are covering the upper screws.
there doesn't seem to be an easy way to remove these without damaging them, but they pry out with some effort with a flat head screwdriver;
four screws hold the kneepad trim. once that and the dash gauge cluster is out of the way, you can unplug the wiring harness connected to the back of the ignition switch.
next you will have to back out two set screws which will be encased in glue, i've had success scraping the glue using a small philip's head screwdriver. then you'll need a small flathead screwdriver to back the two screws out, as they hold the switch in place. you can see the two screws here, covered in what's left of the red powdery glue;
finally, here's the photo of the old and new switch;
first, you must also remove the dash gauge cluster in order to access the set screws that hold the ignition switch in place from the top. this is straightforward as two screws under the steering column will remove the top half of the column, which then gives you access to the two lower screws that holds the dash gauge cluster in place.
second, in order to remove the kneepad trim, you must remove the two interior trim plugs that are covering the upper screws.
there doesn't seem to be an easy way to remove these without damaging them, but they pry out with some effort with a flat head screwdriver;
four screws hold the kneepad trim. once that and the dash gauge cluster is out of the way, you can unplug the wiring harness connected to the back of the ignition switch.
next you will have to back out two set screws which will be encased in glue, i've had success scraping the glue using a small philip's head screwdriver. then you'll need a small flathead screwdriver to back the two screws out, as they hold the switch in place. you can see the two screws here, covered in what's left of the red powdery glue;
finally, here's the photo of the old and new switch;
03-17-2012, 04:00 PM
#19
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sadly, replacing the ignition switch did not fix my problem, so the parking lights, dash lights, and glove box lights still do not work.
the turn signals, cigarette lighter, head lights, back up lights, and brake lights still work.
can anyone tell me how to check the trunk wiring? it all seems okay to me but i'm not sure where or what to check for. any other suggestions are also appreciated. thanks.
the turn signals, cigarette lighter, head lights, back up lights, and brake lights still work.
can anyone tell me how to check the trunk wiring? it all seems okay to me but i'm not sure where or what to check for. any other suggestions are also appreciated. thanks.