All this strut mount talk has got me searching for a 'ping' sound in my suspension...
#11
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It would be impossible for both of these to back out this fa on their own...second look at his pic assure me...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37457/strut_top.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37457/strut_top.jpg">
#12
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flip your cupped washer over and look at the distinct impression/imrint of the slotted nut in its underside.
#13
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and act as a "jam-nut" to prevent it backing out or loosening up. I can verify this with numerous pictures showing it. I can also tell you that when fully torqued into place the slotted nut sits EXACTLY 3mm above the OEM mount floor. Also that all cupped washers will have a scoring of their under-side where the slotted nut actually gauls into the steel under-side of the cupped washer when the strut nut is tightened. The cupped washer should "never" contact any part of the rubber strut mount itself at any point.
Further, if it didnt do it the way I'm describing and did it the way you're suggesting it would fail the OEM mounts within 100 miles as the mount floor would not be able to deflect radially as it must do when steering traverses lock-to-lock. Oh, and all cupped washers under-sides would rest directly on the strut tower tops when installed in new strut mounts if that slotted nut didnt keep it off the mount floor.
Thats why there exists a corresponding 3mm gap (same 3mm that the slotted nut protrudes above mount floor) between cupped washer and strut tower top when new OEM strut mounts are installed.
Further, if it didnt do it the way I'm describing and did it the way you're suggesting it would fail the OEM mounts within 100 miles as the mount floor would not be able to deflect radially as it must do when steering traverses lock-to-lock. Oh, and all cupped washers under-sides would rest directly on the strut tower tops when installed in new strut mounts if that slotted nut didnt keep it off the mount floor.
Thats why there exists a corresponding 3mm gap (same 3mm that the slotted nut protrudes above mount floor) between cupped washer and strut tower top when new OEM strut mounts are installed.
#14
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Just curious, never heard of it, but, that doesn't mean much...
#15
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in high temp locations like exhaust manifold mounting bolts. They are not totally unlike Audi exhaust manifold nuts. They are called "uni-torque" because they apply "uniform torque" all the way around the threaded bolt they're used on. And unlike Nylocks they contain no elastomers to grip the fastener they're used with. Each one is compressed during manufacture so that its top 3-4 threads are a tighter bore than the 1st three/four threads thereby gripping the bolt tighter and "all-way-around."
And nylocks are "supposed" to be replaced EVERY time they are separated from their bolt due to the "set" the nylon takes. Uni-torques can be used repeatedly.
And nylocks are "supposed" to be replaced EVERY time they are separated from their bolt due to the "set" the nylon takes. Uni-torques can be used repeatedly.
#16
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When I swapped my suspension the slot-nuts were barely more than finger tight and I put em back on the almost same way (just slightly more than they were).
#18
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Tho I would think +/-35ftlbs with LocTite 242 (blue) should be sufficient. I've never made an aftermarket strut mount that retained them. That is NOT by accident!
#20
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with an allen. Thats how they are suppose to be. Tight is not as important as stable an in-place. If they move up the strut, they will give you problems.
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