Luxus Panzer

got a trunk that needs paintin, got some questions about sand papers ect..

squidix9

What questions?

Luxus Panzer

i have a trunk lid that I want to sand down and paint black (it is white now)

I am wondering what grit sand paper to use on the original paint to prep it for painting.

Also...I am going to put on a black coat then a clear coat. Do I apply the black...then sand smooth with a 600 grit wet paper, then apply the clear coat and do the same (sand/600grit)

or do i

Apply the black coat..let it dry then apply the clear coat, then sand with 600 grit wet paper and polish?

squidix9

I'd start with a 280 grit and then check for any spots that need a little attention. Use a nice flat block to ppick up any dimples or depressions. Move up from there.

For enamel 400 grit should be plenty, although for black 600 wouldn't hurt.

It depends on the rest of the car if you want to shoot a coat of clear or not. There's huge difference in clear or just a polished finish coat. A clearcoat will really jump out at you.

If you choose to add a clear I always use a 600 or even higher grit depending on what I'm trying to match. For small detail pieces I might even go as far as a special 3000 grit I have. Mostly though I use 600. I like laying a clear down, it really adds a lot to the finish, but it's got to match the rest of the car.

Luxus Panzer

Do I sand the black with a 600 or so grit paper before I lay the clear coat over it?? or do I just leave the black coat and put on the clear coat followed by sanding?


I am going to go for the clear coat as the rest of the car has it

squidix9

Go back and re-read the thread.

After the color coat I do hit it with at least a 600 or even 3000 before I shoot a clear. All you want to do is take down any specs and break the surface. Don't get carried away with the intermediate sanding otherwise you'll take off too much base coat.

If you don't sand in-between, and there is a dust spec, then you sand the clear you'll actually get a pinhole right where the spec was.

Good luck, black over a large surface takes a lot of work! The clear actually makes it easier. If your shop is warm enough try and use a really slow reducer like an RM PNT-90, or equivalent that your supplier has. Be careful though it can run well after you've moved on to another part of the panel. It dries really slow, but gives a fabulous flow and lets the gloss really come to the surface.

Luxus Panzer

wcked man...I thank you much