grillage

The car is a B4 1993 Audi 90 Quattro, and I'll be doing all the work myself. As far as I know the 90 quattro that year came with the sport suspension.

I'm new to this kind of thing but that hasn't stopped me before. I just did the front passenger outer CV boot on the car a month or so ago and while messy and time consuming, it went well.

I'm confident I can get it done but want to avoid the inevitable moment where I realize that I need to replace something that I need to order.

thanks again for the insight.

Lago Blue

Sorry, I see you said '93 B4 q already. BTW, I was able to determine which springs my '93 B4 q <i>should</i> have by the option code on the trunk sticker (which may also be in your original glove-box maintenance book if you are so lucky to have it); and confirm which springs it did have by their colour code (search-able here). The "sport suspension" code you are looking for is "1BE".

The reason I asked is that some garages are reluctant to:

a.) take your suggestion(s) as to procedure to be followed; &
b.) may not want to use anything but OEM equipment.

This may effect your choice of equipment; or mechanic.

As detailed elsewhere on this forum, installing Bilsteins correctly requires more attention to detail, but the privileges of membership, IMHO:

a.) lower life-time cost (it's the guarantee thing again); &
b.) drive-ability.

There is a tech article here for B3s but the B4 fronts are similar. If working yourself, get the manual and work safe. Know what needs to be torqued. Know why and when new nuts are in order. Have Loctite, anti-seize, asphalt under-coating & Brake-Kleen on hand. The only really uncommon tools required are:

- a slotted nut tool (photos not to scale!);
- a spring compressor; &
- a ball-joint tool.

I use a small Pitman arm tool (see photo). Because the end of the screw is pointed, I have a thick washer that I insert onto that point, when lightly bearing up on the back-side of the ball-joint, so that I can lock the tapered ball-joint stem when putting on the nut, until the taper takes hold in the arm's bore.

You can almost do a dry-run in your head with the above materials in mind, and come the real thing, if you run into the unexpected, stop and back out if you have to, until you are ready to move ahead again. Astral raised some typical issues in his post here the other day, if you haven't seen it:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2792779

Good luck.

grillage

Thanks to all for your advice. I decided to go with the Bilsteins. I found them new on ebay for about $100 each so I went ahead with them.

I found the special tools on line and they arrived yesterday. This weekend I hope to get everything done.

One question about the Bilsteins, the information on the forum is a bit confusing about the difference between sport and HD.

I do indeed have the stock sport suspension (1BE code) does that mean I need the "sport" bilsteins or will the HD work?

maineman

google this

bilsteins sport vs HD audi

Lago Blue

IMHO both Bilsteins are fine with 1BE springs. Probably more important that you have two the same! I'm have both (on two separate cars) and am not sure I can feel any dam (ping) difference in driving them BTW.

Sometimes I see sports for sale a little cheaper from the same vendor, not sure why? However, for my purposes WRT suspension compliance choice, I want to err on the less extreme side.

Ensure you have found the tips on:

- renewing the threads on the strut-tube tops;
- do and understand both an empty and full dry-run assembly; i.e. how and why the Bilstein cap-nuts capture the damper body; and exactly where they should be sitting when the dampers are fully located down in the tubes;
- drilling drain-holes in the strut bases, and why;
- assembling the struts while vertical, and why;
- assembling the struts with spacers made from hose to ensure Bilstein damper base centering in the strut-tube seats, and why;
- making the Bilstein cap-nut and knuckle-saving mod to the Bilstein wrench, (and why not!); &
- torquing, Loctite-ing, and rust-proofing the threads for the damper retaining nut and strut-tube.

...before proceeding, as I said before they are fussier to install correctly, but the confidence they bring to the car after-wards is certainly worth the extra precautions.

grillage

I just finished the fronts and my horrible clunking is gone.

It appears that both sides were totally shot.

The new ride is WAY better and I can now drive down bumpy roads without fear.

By the way, another good candidate for the rubber hose inside the strut tube are the rubber fittings you can use to connect drain pipes that are not the same -


You will be looking for a 1 1/4 size end (and taking off the metal strapping obviously). I had to cut the rubber longways to get it in but once inside, I was able to get it back together. When the Bilstein got to it there was resistance and then after pushing a little harder it popped right down. Worked perfectly.

Thanks again to all who helped! It is greatly appreciated.

thabarman

you have this picture in bigger!!

Luxus Panzer

good job, now don't forget to drill a hole in the bottom of your strut holder/spring perch housing..

lets out any water that gets in there

Yes this can be done after the car is all back together if you forgot