Bad idle - Oil caps, dipsticks, PCV, idle screw, MAF adjustment, backfires? (20v)
#1
Bad idle - Oil caps, dipsticks, PCV, idle screw, MAF adjustment, backfires? (20v)
Couple questions about a bad idle on my 90 CQ:
-The oil cap and dipstick are supposed to affect the idle/stall the car when removed, right? I slightly lifted my oil cap today and the car continued to run the same. I also noticed the dipstick seems a little sloppy when in place (comes out easily). Could these have any affect, and how should I fix them (or replace)?
-Does the 20v have a PCV valve?
-I disco'ed my ISV an tightened the idle screw all the way in. The car did not stall. Vacuum leak?
-Where is the adjustment screw on the MAF, and is it safe to play with a little if I mark the original orientation of the screw?
-I've revved the engine and a couple times it has made a suprising pop/bang from the intake (occasionally tailpipe). I can't remember - what's the cause of this?
Thanks for any answers!
-The oil cap and dipstick are supposed to affect the idle/stall the car when removed, right? I slightly lifted my oil cap today and the car continued to run the same. I also noticed the dipstick seems a little sloppy when in place (comes out easily). Could these have any affect, and how should I fix them (or replace)?
-Does the 20v have a PCV valve?
-I disco'ed my ISV an tightened the idle screw all the way in. The car did not stall. Vacuum leak?
-Where is the adjustment screw on the MAF, and is it safe to play with a little if I mark the original orientation of the screw?
-I've revved the engine and a couple times it has made a suprising pop/bang from the intake (occasionally tailpipe). I can't remember - what's the cause of this?
Thanks for any answers!
#2
my car did that.......
in the stages leading to a distributor failure.....
it was actually RUNNING (crappy, but running) with TWO or THREE teeth missing!!!!
it stalled sometimes, sputteed, backfired through the intake (fried an airfilter too, check that!)
make sure timing is correct. the 7a will self-adjust, but you just need to make sure base timing isnt off
turn the engine to TDC on the compression cycle in cyl # 1
then move the dizzy so that the rotor points right at the #1 plug wire in the cap.....make sure that is like that....
it was actually RUNNING (crappy, but running) with TWO or THREE teeth missing!!!!
it stalled sometimes, sputteed, backfired through the intake (fried an airfilter too, check that!)
make sure timing is correct. the 7a will self-adjust, but you just need to make sure base timing isnt off
turn the engine to TDC on the compression cycle in cyl # 1
then move the dizzy so that the rotor points right at the #1 plug wire in the cap.....make sure that is like that....
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