quattromano

Guys,has anybody ever used the Turkey Baster method of changing the brake fluid? I know you can get most of the fluid out of the brake reservoir, but what about the rest of the system? Is it good enough to just replace the fluid in the reservoir? Will there be any air getting into the system by this method? Is there any damage possible to components this way? How about using the Griot's Garage Liquid Extractor? I've used it to change my Pentosin and it get's it all out.

repeater

But most of the fluid in the lines and near your calipers is more contaminated than in the reservior. I made a neato shadetree powerbleeder that works great but I haven't used it on an ABS vehicle yet. I'll keep you posted when I do. You can always just gravity bleed the old fluid out and keep checking the reservior every 20 minutes or so, keep filling it a few times and then close your bleeders. That's another easy way, just make sure you use tubing on the bleeders or you'll have a messy garage! Anyone wants directions on the neat-o power bleeder let me know. LATERS,

TIM

88.80
99.Passat

90cqer

i changed fluid from regular dot 4 to the ATE super blue. used the turkey baster to suck out as much as I could then added the blue, bled the brakes until I saw blue fluid and no air bubbles. worked great.
much easier job if you have the suction bleeder, or grab a helper to pump the brakes. I would suggest if you do the parnter thing to only press the pedal about 1/2 way down instead of all the way to the floor. I've heard going all the way down can make o-rings go in the master cylinder faster then normal.

repeater

Does the pedal feel any different? The silicone fluids are good to keep out moisture and contamination, but I've heard alot of people say the pedal, even after being properly bled has a bit more fade to it. LATERS,

TIM

88.80
99.Passat

Don@STaSIS

pressure bleed with the appropriate bleeder. Though most homemade and cheap bleeders don't feed fluid into the reservoir, just pressure, you add fluid as needed. Good shop quality bleeders are filled with fresh fluid, you connect, pump up pressure, and open bleeders, it forces the old out and puts new fluid in. God I loved having that at the shop.

I personally suck out the old fluid, fill with fresh, then use speedbleeders all around so I can do it myself. Though I've never had a bleed procedure work 100% as planned on the 90q20v. The 80 was so easy with speedbleeders, must have bled those once a month swapping brake parts around all the time.

ALso a nice touch is to use ATE Superblue, then on the next bleed use TYP200. It's the same fluid but colored differently, great to indicate when you've totally bleed out of the old fluid. I just ordered two bottles of TYP200 for the impending big brake install.

Cheers,

Don@STaSIS

Superblue just has very high specs for a DOT4 fluid. ATE Superblue and TYP200 are the same fluid, just different colors. Some folks like the Motul DOT4 too. I've always used the Superblue and TYP200 without issue.

Cheers,

snoogins

Super Blue's good stuff, but thought it was out of print?

90cqer

I got my blue from Futrell, but they don't have the typ200<ul><li><a href="http://www.futrellautowerks.com/">clicky clicky</a></li></ul>

90cqer

Considering I put new pads in the rear at the same time I have noticed a difference but not sure if it's cuz of fluid or the fact that the rear has pads now.. I actually think I might have some air in the lines somewhere and am going to re-bleed them some day soon. then I'll give them the performance tests...

Don@STaSIS

I couldn't find many places so I just google'd ATE TYP 200 and this is one of the first places that popped up. Decent price, $9.95 a bottle, online ordering, we'll see if it shows up

Superblue is everywhere, but I am switching from blue this time and I have no TYP 200 around. I just used to get it at work two summers ago, a whole pressure bleeder full of it, worked like a champ.

Cheers,<ul><li><a href="http://www.strictly-german.com">http://www.strictly-german.com</a</li></ul>