A/C RELAY - BURNED
06-21-2001, 06:16 PM
#1
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A/C RELAY - BURNED
THE SITUATION:
'93S WAS NOT RUNNING AND PARKED.UPON RETURNING TO CAR THE INTERIOR WAS FILLED WITH SMOKE.
WHAT I FOUND:
THE FUSE AND RELAY PANEL UNDER THE HOOD HAS BURNED(MELTED): A/C(#6) RELAY, WIRING HARNESS DIRECTLY BELOW RELAY AND WIRES LEADING FROM HARNESS. THE GROUND WIRE(BR/W)IS BURNED(NO INSULATION)ALL THE WAY TO GROUNDING LOCATION. THE YELLOW/BLACK WIRE IS BURNED ONLY AT THE HARNESS. THERE APPEARS TO BE ANOTHER WIRE THAT MAY HAVE BEEN ATTACHED(AT HARNESS) BUT I AM NOT SURE AND I DON'T HAVE A SCHEMATIC.
QUESTION:
IS IT POSSIBLE TO ATTRIBUTE THE SITUATION TO A FAULTY RELAY? KEEP IN MIND THE CAR WAS NOT RUNNING. I DID NOTICE FOR A SHORT TIME PRIOR TO THE PROBLEM , THE COOLING FANS WERE REMAINING ON WITH ENGINE ON AS TO INDICATE THE A/C WAS ON. IN FACT THE A/C(COMPRESSOR)CONTINUED TO RUN AFTER THE MELTING SITUATION.
DILEMA:
IF I RUN A NEW GROUND WIRE, REPLACE THE RELAY AND THE FUSE BLOCK; WILL I FIX THE PROBLEM? COULD THE CULPRIT HAVE BEEN THE RELAY OR DID SOMETHING CAUSE THE RELAY TO BURN ON THE FUSE BLOCK?
ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED!! IF YOU HAVE A SCHEMATIC PERHAPS YOU COULD HELP ALSO WITH THE WIRING AT THE HARNESS BEHIND THE RELAY. - MARC
'93S WAS NOT RUNNING AND PARKED.UPON RETURNING TO CAR THE INTERIOR WAS FILLED WITH SMOKE.
WHAT I FOUND:
THE FUSE AND RELAY PANEL UNDER THE HOOD HAS BURNED(MELTED): A/C(#6) RELAY, WIRING HARNESS DIRECTLY BELOW RELAY AND WIRES LEADING FROM HARNESS. THE GROUND WIRE(BR/W)IS BURNED(NO INSULATION)ALL THE WAY TO GROUNDING LOCATION. THE YELLOW/BLACK WIRE IS BURNED ONLY AT THE HARNESS. THERE APPEARS TO BE ANOTHER WIRE THAT MAY HAVE BEEN ATTACHED(AT HARNESS) BUT I AM NOT SURE AND I DON'T HAVE A SCHEMATIC.
QUESTION:
IS IT POSSIBLE TO ATTRIBUTE THE SITUATION TO A FAULTY RELAY? KEEP IN MIND THE CAR WAS NOT RUNNING. I DID NOTICE FOR A SHORT TIME PRIOR TO THE PROBLEM , THE COOLING FANS WERE REMAINING ON WITH ENGINE ON AS TO INDICATE THE A/C WAS ON. IN FACT THE A/C(COMPRESSOR)CONTINUED TO RUN AFTER THE MELTING SITUATION.
DILEMA:
IF I RUN A NEW GROUND WIRE, REPLACE THE RELAY AND THE FUSE BLOCK; WILL I FIX THE PROBLEM? COULD THE CULPRIT HAVE BEEN THE RELAY OR DID SOMETHING CAUSE THE RELAY TO BURN ON THE FUSE BLOCK?
ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED!! IF YOU HAVE A SCHEMATIC PERHAPS YOU COULD HELP ALSO WITH THE WIRING AT THE HARNESS BEHIND THE RELAY. - MARC
06-22-2001, 08:39 AM
#3
Couple questions.....
If the insulation was burned off how do you know it was a Brown/White wire. The reason I ask is because there is no Brown/White wire shown in the schematic. There is a Brown (ground) wire and a Brown/Yellow wire?? Do you know which wire it was??
Also, there is not a Yellow/Black wire....I assume you mean Black/Yellow!!?
It would be helpful if you could read the number on the relay (or off the fuse box) associated with the burnt wires. That would make it a lot easier to read from the schematic (if it's not too fried). Or even explain them by there orintation in the fuse box if you can't get the numbers!! Let me know the numbers if you can read them!!
How does relay #11 look...and the fuse panel under it??
One more thing...I'm not sure what your saying here..
"I DID NOTICE FOR A SHORT TIME PRIOR TO THE PROBLEM , THE COOLING FANS WERE REMAINING ON WITH ENGINE ON AS TO INDICATE THE A/C WAS ON. IN FACT THE A/C(COMPRESSOR)CONTINUED TO RUN AFTER THE MELTING SITUATION. "
Are you saying that the A/C (and fan) were running with the switch "off" (manual climate control??)??
That's enough for now. Answer what you can and I'll see if I can come up with a possible explanation!!
---
Andrew
90 80q
91 90
95 90q
Also, there is not a Yellow/Black wire....I assume you mean Black/Yellow!!?
It would be helpful if you could read the number on the relay (or off the fuse box) associated with the burnt wires. That would make it a lot easier to read from the schematic (if it's not too fried). Or even explain them by there orintation in the fuse box if you can't get the numbers!! Let me know the numbers if you can read them!!
How does relay #11 look...and the fuse panel under it??
One more thing...I'm not sure what your saying here..
"I DID NOTICE FOR A SHORT TIME PRIOR TO THE PROBLEM , THE COOLING FANS WERE REMAINING ON WITH ENGINE ON AS TO INDICATE THE A/C WAS ON. IN FACT THE A/C(COMPRESSOR)CONTINUED TO RUN AFTER THE MELTING SITUATION. "
Are you saying that the A/C (and fan) were running with the switch "off" (manual climate control??)??
That's enough for now. Answer what you can and I'll see if I can come up with a possible explanation!!
---
Andrew
90 80q
91 90
95 90q
06-22-2001, 03:25 PM
#4
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Re: Couple questions.....
HEY ANDREW - THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME!
FROM THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FUSE PANEL AND ORIGINATING FROM A LONG-SNAP-IN HARNESS, ARE AT LEAST FIVE WIRES AND POSSIBLY FOUR. FROM SAME TERMINAL THERE ARE TWO BLACK/YELLOW WIRES AND FROM ANOTHER TERMINAL IT APPEARS THERE ARE TWO ALSO. BOTH OF THE LATTER HAVE BURNED INSULATION BUT I DID FOLLOW ONE ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUNDING LOCATION ON THE CAR. THE OTHER WIRE COULD QUITE POSSIBLY BE BROWN/YELLOW, BUT THE IS BURNED TO BARE STRANDS AND IN FACT MELTED (SEPERATED) AT THE HARNESS. THERE DOES APPEAR TO BE ONE OTHER WIRE(SINGLE), BUT IT IS BURNED TO A CRISP AND I DO NOT KNOW WHERE IT WAS ROUTED.
THE HARNESS THAT I AM REFERING TO IS LOCATED DIRECTLY BELOW THE #11 RELAY LOCATION.IT HAS A LETTER DESIGNATION OF 'P'.
STRANGELY, I DO NOT HAVE A #11 OR A #2 RELAY(THE CAR WAS PURCHASED USED AND THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ONE THERE).
THE BURNED RELAY(#214-PRINTED ON TOP OF RELAY) SITS IN THE #5 PANEL LOCATION.
TO BETTER EXPLAIN THE FAN SITUATION I WILL SAY THAT SOME TIME AGO I HAD EXPERIENCED A PROBLEM WITH A FAULTY FAN RELAY. AT THAT TIME THE FANS WOULD REMAIN ON EVEN AFTER THE CAR WAS OFF AND THEY WOULD RUN THE BATTERY DOWN. BEING FAMILIAR WITH THE RADIATOR THERMOSTAT THAT IS DESIGNED TO RUN THE FANS AS NECESSARY(AFTER SHUTTING OFF),I NEW THAT I HAD A PROBLEM. I CORRECTED THAT AND IT HAS BEEN TROUBLE FREE UP UNTIL NOW.
YES TO YOUR QUESTION REGARDING THE A/C AND FANS RUNNING EVEN AFTER THE MELTING OF THE WIRES. I AM AWARE OF THE FACT THAT THE FANS ARE DESIGNED TO RUN WHEN THE A/C IS ON. BEFORE THE 'MELTDOWN'BECAME OBVIOUS(SMOKE), I HAD NOTICED THE FANS AND COMPRESSOR COMING ON OCCAISIONALY WITH THE A/C SWITCH OFF.THIS WAS PROBABLY THE INITIAL STAGES OF MY PROBLEM. AFTER THE 'MELTDOWN', THE FANS AND COMPRESSOR REMAINED ON.
I WILL BE WATCHING FOR YOUR REPLY AND ONCE AGAIN YOUR HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!
THANKS - MARC
FROM THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FUSE PANEL AND ORIGINATING FROM A LONG-SNAP-IN HARNESS, ARE AT LEAST FIVE WIRES AND POSSIBLY FOUR. FROM SAME TERMINAL THERE ARE TWO BLACK/YELLOW WIRES AND FROM ANOTHER TERMINAL IT APPEARS THERE ARE TWO ALSO. BOTH OF THE LATTER HAVE BURNED INSULATION BUT I DID FOLLOW ONE ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUNDING LOCATION ON THE CAR. THE OTHER WIRE COULD QUITE POSSIBLY BE BROWN/YELLOW, BUT THE IS BURNED TO BARE STRANDS AND IN FACT MELTED (SEPERATED) AT THE HARNESS. THERE DOES APPEAR TO BE ONE OTHER WIRE(SINGLE), BUT IT IS BURNED TO A CRISP AND I DO NOT KNOW WHERE IT WAS ROUTED.
THE HARNESS THAT I AM REFERING TO IS LOCATED DIRECTLY BELOW THE #11 RELAY LOCATION.IT HAS A LETTER DESIGNATION OF 'P'.
STRANGELY, I DO NOT HAVE A #11 OR A #2 RELAY(THE CAR WAS PURCHASED USED AND THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ONE THERE).
THE BURNED RELAY(#214-PRINTED ON TOP OF RELAY) SITS IN THE #5 PANEL LOCATION.
TO BETTER EXPLAIN THE FAN SITUATION I WILL SAY THAT SOME TIME AGO I HAD EXPERIENCED A PROBLEM WITH A FAULTY FAN RELAY. AT THAT TIME THE FANS WOULD REMAIN ON EVEN AFTER THE CAR WAS OFF AND THEY WOULD RUN THE BATTERY DOWN. BEING FAMILIAR WITH THE RADIATOR THERMOSTAT THAT IS DESIGNED TO RUN THE FANS AS NECESSARY(AFTER SHUTTING OFF),I NEW THAT I HAD A PROBLEM. I CORRECTED THAT AND IT HAS BEEN TROUBLE FREE UP UNTIL NOW.
YES TO YOUR QUESTION REGARDING THE A/C AND FANS RUNNING EVEN AFTER THE MELTING OF THE WIRES. I AM AWARE OF THE FACT THAT THE FANS ARE DESIGNED TO RUN WHEN THE A/C IS ON. BEFORE THE 'MELTDOWN'BECAME OBVIOUS(SMOKE), I HAD NOTICED THE FANS AND COMPRESSOR COMING ON OCCAISIONALY WITH THE A/C SWITCH OFF.THIS WAS PROBABLY THE INITIAL STAGES OF MY PROBLEM. AFTER THE 'MELTDOWN', THE FANS AND COMPRESSOR REMAINED ON.
I WILL BE WATCHING FOR YOUR REPLY AND ONCE AGAIN YOUR HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!
THANKS - MARC
06-23-2001, 05:05 AM
#6
I got it........
....I think??
I think your blower motor resistor went bye-bye!! By bye-bye, your resistor may have stopped "resisting" and is allow too much current through!! I'll have you check it out...the good news is that it's really easy to do!! I hope you have a digital multimeter so you can check resistance (OHMS)!!
Here's the procedure:
1) Remove glove box (easy to do). Remove the black plastic panel below the glove box (held in by a few bolts). Open the glove box....this will expose 4 - 8mm (or 10mm?) bolts. Remove these four bolts and then "wiggle" the glove box out of the space!!
2) Find blower motor resistor!! It's attached by one screw next to the blower motor...which is directly behind the glove box opening!! If I remember correctly it's toward the upper, drivers (LH) side of the blower motor.
3) Look at the brown/yellow wire at the harness. Look okay?? Also, check the resistor itself and the fuse in the resistor (it's supposed to have one)!! Does it look "cooked"??
4) Now, check the resistance of the resistor. This will be tricky to explain!! One wire going in (TO THE RESISTOR) will be a Brown/Green....put your "red" multimeter lead to that location on the resistor plug. Then place your "black" multimeter lead in each of the remaining three locations. At each location record your resistance. Pay particular attention to the resistance when the multimeter leads are on the (BROWN/GREEN) and the BROWN/YELLOW wire!!
5) Resistance's should read 0.26, 1.18 and 3.08 OHMS. The 3.08 ohms resistance will be when comparing the BROWN/GREEN and the BROWN/YELLOW!!!
5a)Another method for resistance:
If I remember correctly there are numbers on the resistor at the "plug" location. Another (possibly clearer) method to check the resistance may be to check the resistance by the numbers on the "plug". This alternative test method would be to set multimeter leads to:
#1-#2 - 1.9 ohms
#2-#4 - 0.92 ohms
#4-#5 - 0.26 ohms
Both methods 5) and 5a) will tell you the same thing in a different manner. You only need to do one....do whichever you feel the most comfortable with!!
This will take you 30-60 mins to check. Let me know what you find out!! I have other ideas too......but I think this is it!!
GOOD LUCK!!!
---
Andrew
90 80q
91 90
95 90q
I think your blower motor resistor went bye-bye!! By bye-bye, your resistor may have stopped "resisting" and is allow too much current through!! I'll have you check it out...the good news is that it's really easy to do!! I hope you have a digital multimeter so you can check resistance (OHMS)!!
Here's the procedure:
1) Remove glove box (easy to do). Remove the black plastic panel below the glove box (held in by a few bolts). Open the glove box....this will expose 4 - 8mm (or 10mm?) bolts. Remove these four bolts and then "wiggle" the glove box out of the space!!
2) Find blower motor resistor!! It's attached by one screw next to the blower motor...which is directly behind the glove box opening!! If I remember correctly it's toward the upper, drivers (LH) side of the blower motor.
3) Look at the brown/yellow wire at the harness. Look okay?? Also, check the resistor itself and the fuse in the resistor (it's supposed to have one)!! Does it look "cooked"??
4) Now, check the resistance of the resistor. This will be tricky to explain!! One wire going in (TO THE RESISTOR) will be a Brown/Green....put your "red" multimeter lead to that location on the resistor plug. Then place your "black" multimeter lead in each of the remaining three locations. At each location record your resistance. Pay particular attention to the resistance when the multimeter leads are on the (BROWN/GREEN) and the BROWN/YELLOW wire!!
5) Resistance's should read 0.26, 1.18 and 3.08 OHMS. The 3.08 ohms resistance will be when comparing the BROWN/GREEN and the BROWN/YELLOW!!!
5a)Another method for resistance:
If I remember correctly there are numbers on the resistor at the "plug" location. Another (possibly clearer) method to check the resistance may be to check the resistance by the numbers on the "plug". This alternative test method would be to set multimeter leads to:
#1-#2 - 1.9 ohms
#2-#4 - 0.92 ohms
#4-#5 - 0.26 ohms
Both methods 5) and 5a) will tell you the same thing in a different manner. You only need to do one....do whichever you feel the most comfortable with!!
This will take you 30-60 mins to check. Let me know what you find out!! I have other ideas too......but I think this is it!!
GOOD LUCK!!!
---
Andrew
90 80q
91 90
95 90q
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