white90+hibredS4

and it also said connect hose then start car, if i start then connect will it be any diff.?

SLAB

if you were actually charging the system, the can should have never exploded....

the pressure inside the can at room temp is about 80 PSI....you should have attached the "setup" you have to the high side service port, and waited until pressures in the system equilized with the can...

then BOILING water will raise pressure to 212 or so PSI, and will force all the ramaining refrigerant into the system....


then you would want the pressure in an OPERATING system to be about 35 PSI low, and 220-250 high...


then you would keep adding refrigerant until the ammount listed in the book is in...

i have NO idea without a scale and the proper equipment how you would find the optimal ammount of refrigerant to add...

also dont use any of that AC booster or leak sealer garbage...it only causes problems later, and slowly ruins the compressor and cloggs the orifice...

all you should have in there is the right synthetic oil, and 134a


my B3 90 20v blows 36 degree air sitting at fast idle....thats COLD...but then again, i have all the proper equipment at my house including a vacuum pump (your system will never be at top efficiency since you cracked a line and let air in there...) and also a set of good manifold gauges...

repeater

The can was in the water and not hooked up to anything. I was no where around it, well, until I walked up on it. It blew up. The idea is to put the can in hot water to warm it up, this keeps the freon in a liquid state and at higher pressure so it can be forced through the high side while the vehicle is off.

The Sub zero is 14oz freon and 3 oz of sythetic oil, I bought it because it contained what I needed - freon and oil.

I never cracked a line open - there was zero pressure in it to begin with.

The system was empty, so adding 20oz of freon/oil did not hurt anything. That's barely capacity. The thing is cold as ice now and my wallet still has 50.00 extra dollars in it. End of story. Do I know what I'm doing? On most things, yes, but I completely understood the consequences of what I was doing before I started - I just wanted to see if it could be done. Well, I did it. I just blew up a can of Freon too in the process.

repeater

Make sure your turning the handle all the way out after you pierce the can. Keep the can upside down and hold it while the freon is going in. If the compressor clutch doesn't kick on right away after Freon goes in, then chances are there is a problem with the compressor or clutch/relay.

SLAB

but i didnt think too bright of an idea to boil a can of closed refrigerant...

me & my buddy when i was in school took a PVC pipe about the diameter of a freon can, and capped one end....we then drove a nail through the cap, and then took a can of freon and threw it downward (have to use a lot of force here) to hit the nail....insta-morter...thoes things fly...


also, sitting in the can all by itself the refrigerent is a liquid...when you confine a certain weight of refrigerent into a certain space, it condenses....from gas to liquid...

also, 134A's pressure is DIRECTLY proportional to its temperature...

the compressor pumps vapor into the high side where it condenses in the condenser as it COOLS (heating it makes it want to expand, like you found out with the ruptured canister) then turns to liquid....from there, it goes over to the restricter, which is exactly that, a calibrated restriction...thats where the low & high side divide...one side is warm, high pressure liquid, and on the other side, because of 134a's properties, after the pressure drop becomes VERY cold (40 PSI = 40 degrees remember)

then the cold low pressure liquid hits the evaporator where it is warmed, and pressure rises enough for the liquid to expand, and get sucked back into the compressor....

also, if your system had NO pressure, then it had air in it....it was depresurized from a leak, wich then let air into the system...and thus MOISTURE...

i recommend you change your accumulator, find the leak, and place the system under a vacuum, then recharge with refrigerant.

90/90Qs

hahaaa! Ahhh the joy and excitement of shadtree mechanics ;D-b

CalG

Without offense SLAB, yours is not a particularly good description of the refrigeration cycle.
The flow is right, Gas, to compressor to liquid condensor tank, to expansion valve, and back to gas again. But the don't forget that the thermodynamics. Compressed and liquified refrigerant must give up some of it's "heat" so that it can absorb "heat" again at the expansion coils. That is why there is a set of coils near the radiator, and a set of coils in the A/C unit with the blower.
The very fact that the liquified high pressure refridgerant is allowed to expand allows it to absorb heat. This is the same as why air cools with increasing altitude.

I celebrate repeater in his "dare" and his success. Now we can all gain knowledge from the experience.

I would not suggest elevating the temperature of any closed pressure vessel without providing an over pressure relief.

repeater, did you get a gauge reading???

Regards

CalG

repeater

I know system capacity on the UrS/100/A6 is 21oz of freon, 1.8oz oil. I put in 20oz of Freon and 2 oz. of oil on an empty system. So regardless of pressures, I think I'm in the ballpark. Car blows cold, everything is fine, and compressor doesn't make any funny noises.

SLAB

do, pressure drop = temperature drop...

i know how it works, its judt hard explaining it...