sidespar

I was doing some reading before going out to swap the plugs, and it says that you need to check the gap. I bought the OEM Bosch plugs for the 7A, so I don't know why I need to adjust to gap. If I do, do I need a special tool? Also, is it necessary to use anti-seize compound and if so, what should I buy?

Thanks.

Stage-3-Emre

If you bought the OEM plugs, they should come pre-gaped.

4Driver4

I use a coating of motor oil.

90quattrocoupe

After many years of running Air cooled cars, use anti-seize not motor oils on the threads

4Driver4

This isn't a '67 beetle.

sidespar

after I did it, I realized the correct torque was 20 N-M. I torqued to 20 ft. lbs. Is it ok, or do I need to re-torque?

repeater

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/1018/a8_plug_failure_1.jpg"></center><p>Like Motocraft and AC Delco plugs - especially on Aluminum heads. I can't tell you how many 2.0 and 2.2 Cavalier heads I've had to pull and send to the machine shop to drill and retap the head. Bosch plugs, in all their various forms are nickel-cadnium coated, so "allegedly" there's no need for anti-seize, but I've still seen them seize up and break. Not even nearly as much as anodized plugs. I'd use antiseize every time with them with anodized plugs. Bosch though, I don't - and on an AAN with issues on plugs backing out, I certainly wouldn't. Motor oil is good for installation, but it burns off through time - it's certainly better than putting them in dry. This is a pic I stumbled on in JimR's picposter - regular Bosch super copper plug - thank god he had a good quality easy-out. So yes, even nickel-cadnium coated plugs can do it.