slaven73

clutch pedal on my 89 90 quattro staying stuck on the floor. it always was a bit sticky but i guess a combination of heat and traffic did it in. i realize this is probably the clutch but it actually is barely shifting gears(could it be hydraulic). i feel stupid for writing this but i'm so freakin frustrated i can't obtain a repair manual for this car. i replaced clutch on a vw a few years back but i guess this is a bigger job. if anyone has any ideas or knows where to get a good clutch it would be awesome.

dtompsett

Hard to shift means the clutch isn't fully disengagine. Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is shot... not too hard to replace. little difficult to get to the fitting in the engine bay, but it can be done.

Harowing

may also be the slave cylinder, goodluck with the bleed when replacing either though, thats a very large, loaf of PITA, and if you replace master, dont forget to measure the distance on the rod, between the cylinder and the back of pedal bracket(thing? whatever its called lol..), anyways, vac bleeding these doesnt work, and iirc reverse bleeding damages them? (think that was posted on here somewhere) anyways, yes, odds are, its your hydraulics, best to replace both cylinders at the same time(imo anyways... if ones down, the other probably isnt far off either... you dont wanna bleed it twice..i promise..) anyways, goodluck.

slaven73

do you know where i can find detailed instructions to bleed the clutch

Harowing

Well I could just tell ya if you preffer.... Lol. First thing to do is put the rear end of your car up high as ya can get it so the bleed screw on the slave is the high end, then, you'll need a 13mm I believe it was wrench, place it on the bleeder, then either attach a bleed kit or a tube(prefferably clear) to the bleed screw with wrench still attached if you use the tube method put the other end of it in a cup with some brakefluid in it, then get someone inside the car, open the bleeder up, get themto push the clutch n hold it, close bleedscrew, pull pedal up. Now if that method doesn't work after a while, just leave bleeder open with rear end up for 2-12 hours, that may do it on it's own after the cylindersare well primed, but I wouldn't count on it. Then the last ditch effort, is always pull the slave out oftransmission, and push the rod on the slave cylinder by hand while opening the bleeder screw, and closing it before letting out (really hard on the hands) anyways goodluck

allangering

Clutch problems can occur at almost any mileage and for a wide variety of reasons. When the clutch pedal is released and the clutch disc starts to rub against the flywheel and pressure plate, it generates friction and heat. This helps absorb the shock loading that would otherwise jolt the drivetrain every time the transmission was put into gear or shifted.Many clutch discs have a spring-loaded center hub for this very purpose. The springs provide a little "give" when the clutch is engaged, and also help dampen harmonics and subtle variations in the engine's power output.

slaven73

thanks for all the input. wasn't easy, only a couple freakouts. took a couple baths in brake fluid. tried to bleed the system by working the slave cylinder rod but didn't realize not to push pedal so i exploded my new slave cylinder. couldn't get a new one quick enough so i used the old one, seems to be fine. anyway, the car has seriously lost power just recently and i can't figure it out. i'm leaning towards the cat. the exhaust was recently done and the cat is making noise, also the exhaust recently started sounding deeper. could it be jammed up, is there any way of knowing without taking it out.

Harowing

aye, there should be a capped nipple on the side of the exhaust somewhere, take the cap off and hook up a pressure gauge, start the engine, mine, reads less then 1psi, but IIRC it can be up to 8psi? without a blockage, but if it is that high...id check it anyways