varia

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...aint/index.htm

egp320i

G12 is an update to G11 and can be run longer 5/60 whereas blue should be changed more around 3 because it loses it's strength.

Nothing wrong with blue and formula wise they are the same, blue though adds borax which is a good mild system cleaner.

G12++ Lilac [lightly silicated]

107-21-1 ethane-1,2-diol ?@G Xn; R 22Danger: ~? 3.1.O/3 < 75%
149-57-5 2-ethylhexanoic acid ?@G Xn; R 63Warning: ~? 3.7/2< 5%

2-EHA is the plasticizer in dex-cool. Audi Radiator fittings are plastic, 2-EHA softens plastic.


G12+ purple [G 012 A8F A4]
name..................%.......CAS
ethylene glycol.....70-80%..107-21-1
diethylene glycol...10-20%..111-46-6
sebacic acid.........1-5%...111-20-6
sodium hydroxide....1-1.5%..1310-73-2

G12 Red

107-21-1 ethane-1,2-diol ?@G Xn; R 22 Warning: ~? 3.1.O/4 < 90%
111-46-6 2,2'-oxybisethanol ?@G Xn; R 22 Warning: ~? 3.1.O/4 < 5%

oxybisenthanol is DEG which is highly poisonous and has caused numerous health issues, maybe the reason Pentosin dropped it evne though it works good in coolant.

G11 Blue

107-21-1 ethane-1,2-diol (75-100%) WEL Short-term value: 104** mg/m³, 40** ppm
Long-term value: 10* 52** mg/m³, 20** ppm Sk *particulate **vapour

1330-43-4 disodium tetraborate, anhydrous (< 5%) WEL Long-term value: 1 mg/m³

Disodium teraborate is [borax] cleaner/detergent.

Hey, it cleans your cloths good so why not the engine?


G12++ due to the formula which is like dexcool appears to have been dropped by Audi and they have reverted back to just G12.

To note G-12 is Glysantin "Alu Protect/G 30

Audi block, radiator and heater core are aluminum.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

was that English?

egp320i

Yep, English

Those are from the MSDS of each showing what the formula is.

I am no chemist but I researched what each of those acids are for each version to gain some insight as to what they offer.

G12++ is considered a hybrid as it is OAT but still has a pinch of silicates which can repair aluminum pit damage.

Too much silicates like in green can fall out of suspension and end up looking like grey silt at the bottom of your radiator or your engine block plug if the coolant is allowed to go past it's due date.

Green works but you must change it at the right time and most people are negligent and just forget.

Audi went with OAT as it is almost depleted when a timing belt change comes up and since the coolant needs to be removed/replaced it makes perfect sense.

alsies

OK, I bought some G12++ from a VW dealership ($A26 for a 1.5 litre bottle) and did the coolant flush and change. I flushed and back flushed the system about 4 times, running the engine each time until the thermostat opened, and until the water came out all clear. I then drained the system, then added the coolant (2 bottles) with the rest being demineralised water. All done now. The pink colour is rather cool!
Thanks for your advice, everyone!

egp320i

If it is pink color then it is the original G12 red you bought? The ++ bottles have a lilac top and once mixed will be a lilac color.

I noticed Oreilly's actually sells Pentosin G12 gallon but it is the same price as the white gallon at the dealer so really no savings.

It was rather stupid, purple diluted is lilac and so is lilac diluted but even more faint, probably the reason red is back in favor.

Mighty expensive at that dealership, I can buy a gallon for $22.

Also note the system holds just shy of 12L so you actually need 4 bottles split 50/50 with distilled water for a full fill.

3L would give you a 75 water and 25 coolant ratio.

JamesOfCarson

Not to bring up an old thread, but would using Zerex Gold require a flush if still using (what I'm assuming) is the factory coolant?