hubturn

When bleeding the coolant system, how important is it to use the bleeder screw next to the Coolant Temp Sensor in the solid pipe? My allen slot just rounded out. The one going to the heater is easy. Getting that allen screw out is going to be difficult. My problem right now is no heat. I plan to remove the hoses and try a reverse flush.

Lago Blue

Some say to ignore the bleeder next to the CTS, some say to only attempt to loosen this when it is hot. Mine has anti-seize on it's threads and I've loosened and removed it hot and cold. Using it periodically seems to ensure it remains useable. You may be ok without it, but the time required to get it full may stretch out over more (hot and cold cycling of the system) days.

Some say to ignore the bleed screw in the heater hose elbow and proceed as if it had a hidden drilled hole in the heater pipe under the hose (as some do) and just partially remove said hose to effect bleeding. My hose elbow bleeder is dis-abled, so that's what I do.

Some say to apply slight pressure to the Reservoir when bleeding vice using pressure due to fluid heating. A spare Res. cap fitted with a schrader valve works well here but Warning: pressurize with a pound or two from a bicycle pump only, similar to a pressure brake bleed set-up.

Measuring the fluid drained helps me know when re-filling it is complete. Because the reservoir, and only when it's full to the max, is only barely the high point of the system, getting everything that was removed back in is often tedious.

hubturn

It's off to the junk yard for a back up cap. I did add some pressure to the reservoir and I believe that helped. I even removed the heater hoses and started the engine. I was surprised that no fluid was pumped out.