coolant temp sensor
#1
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coolant temp sensor
ok my temp sensor keeps flashing, i know there is enough coolant and i know its not running too hot. anything else that could be the problem? i just had my radiator replaced about two weeks ago and thats when the problem started.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/59668/vag03127.jpg">
is there another sensor beside #12
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/59668/vag03127.jpg">
is there another sensor beside #12
#3
Also, a good question is was the system correctly bled of air? Miktip has the pic of. . .
where the bleeders are located on the cooling system. I looked around, and I can't find it so maybe he'll repost it...?
Especially if whoever did the radiator didn't know they were supposed to bleed the system in specific places, then this could be it too. I know that until I bled my cooling system properly, my temp. guage was all screwed up, but not until I had finished my 10 flushes did I bleed it right.
Another thing too... did the person who installed the radiator drain the block, or just pull the radiator and plop in the new one? I'm guessing you have a 12v based on the diagram you attached?
Thank Miktip for the picture...
Especially if whoever did the radiator didn't know they were supposed to bleed the system in specific places, then this could be it too. I know that until I bled my cooling system properly, my temp. guage was all screwed up, but not until I had finished my 10 flushes did I bleed it right.
Another thing too... did the person who installed the radiator drain the block, or just pull the radiator and plop in the new one? I'm guessing you have a 12v based on the diagram you attached?
Thank Miktip for the picture...
#4
Oh, and hey... just out of curiosity, what type of coolant (what color) is in your system right now?
That's one way of telling whether or not the person who installed your radiator knew what they were doing... in other words, whether or not they did everything else correctly.
#5
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well i brought them the radiator and coolant . . .
i ordered the radiator from bimmerparts, and i just brought them some prestone, its green. But if it does just need to be flushed, should i take it back to them because that is something they were suppose to do, or should i just do it myself.
#7
Well, firstly, what year is it? Not sure about the 20v, but I know the 12v (V6) doesn't get 'green'
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25648/audi_fluid_capacity_chart.jpg"></center><p>
coolant. NO mixing... you're going to need to make sure ALL that green coolant is out before you go and put the right stuff in. The "right stuff" has to be silicate free (Dexcool)... the orange stuff - usually has an orange cap. Prestone's is a silver bottle w/ an orange cap. Looks like orange Hi-C to me... but some call it a red. Maybe I'm colorblind...? I dunno... I'll ask my wife for her opinion.
ANYWAY, if you have a V6 (again, not sure if this applies to the 20v (5 cyl.)), you'll want to pull the engine block plug and drain all the green out. Also pull the draincock on the radiator at the same time. The block drain is below the engine, right where the bellhousing of the trans and the oil pan meet. You'll see it right inbetween there... it's a stainless steel allen-head bolt. Pull that, coolant will drain out. Get a long, thin phillips-head screwdriver and jam it up the hole (make sure the coolant's not too hot, or you'll burn yo wittle hands). What happens is that the inside of your block (especially if you've been using standard green coolant) gets a coating... compare it to soup skin, and the skin will block the drain and make the coolant drain real slowly. You'll need to flush it a few times. Make sure your interior temp controls are set to HOT and the fan is on HI. While flushing the system (use a prestone engine flush, or something), be sure to bleed air out of the cooling system from the bleeder screw on the firewall (it's a plastic screw on the HOT side of the line going into the firewall for your heater core) - this will ensure that your core gets flushed too. Just make sure you get all the flush crap out in the end. Also, try to make sure the water you leave in is distilled, not tapwater, or gardenhose water.
Again, this is ALL assuming you have a 12v. If not... well, hopefully someone else can help you out.
Holla if you need more help!
Matt
coolant. NO mixing... you're going to need to make sure ALL that green coolant is out before you go and put the right stuff in. The "right stuff" has to be silicate free (Dexcool)... the orange stuff - usually has an orange cap. Prestone's is a silver bottle w/ an orange cap. Looks like orange Hi-C to me... but some call it a red. Maybe I'm colorblind...? I dunno... I'll ask my wife for her opinion.
ANYWAY, if you have a V6 (again, not sure if this applies to the 20v (5 cyl.)), you'll want to pull the engine block plug and drain all the green out. Also pull the draincock on the radiator at the same time. The block drain is below the engine, right where the bellhousing of the trans and the oil pan meet. You'll see it right inbetween there... it's a stainless steel allen-head bolt. Pull that, coolant will drain out. Get a long, thin phillips-head screwdriver and jam it up the hole (make sure the coolant's not too hot, or you'll burn yo wittle hands). What happens is that the inside of your block (especially if you've been using standard green coolant) gets a coating... compare it to soup skin, and the skin will block the drain and make the coolant drain real slowly. You'll need to flush it a few times. Make sure your interior temp controls are set to HOT and the fan is on HI. While flushing the system (use a prestone engine flush, or something), be sure to bleed air out of the cooling system from the bleeder screw on the firewall (it's a plastic screw on the HOT side of the line going into the firewall for your heater core) - this will ensure that your core gets flushed too. Just make sure you get all the flush crap out in the end. Also, try to make sure the water you leave in is distilled, not tapwater, or gardenhose water.
Again, this is ALL assuming you have a 12v. If not... well, hopefully someone else can help you out.
Holla if you need more help!
Matt
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#9
Well, if you have a 20v (i5), then I'm not too sure...
I think the 20v would probably get green. Not sure... we need someone who KNOWS to tell you. If green belongs in there, then switching to anything else at this point would be bad as mixing causes gelling; bad news. So stick with green (only b/c you have the 20v) unless someone tells you to do otherwise. I'd still check to make sure the system was correctly bled of air, in reference to your ORIGINAL post.
Matt
Matt