crap, Crap, CRAP, I have to start over with a 30V block...
#1
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After all the clean-up, magna-fluxing and time spent prepping the 12V block I find I cannot adapt the piston pin oil squirters from the 30V to the 12V block. I "could" but it wouldn't be pretty and I dont trust it to be as efficient as the Audi design. I was always going to add the 2.8 30V or 2.7T piston oiler setup to my 12V block but I now find its not doable without a very special machine tool with an offset milling head of which none exist locally and the ones that do in Chicago, Detroit and Los Angeles wont accept "piece-meal" jobs.
Now I need to buy a salvage 30V 2.8 block and start over. This way I get the piston oiler set-up from the factory and all preliminary measurements & visuals show it to be a direct swap from main journals to deck oil/water jackets as well as all ancillary drive devices like water pump, PS pump etc etc.
I just dont have the heart or guts to install these Mega high-$ bottom-end components then rely on "oil splash" to supply necessary or adequate lubrication at 8-10k rpms especially since my cranks rotating diameter has been dramatically reduced and all counter-weight lobes knife-edged to minimize drag thru the oil which will also reduce splash. Example: A butcher knife blade will slice thru an oil puddle with less resultant splash and drag than its handle.
This is gonna set me back another 2 months... oh well, live & learn I guess.
Now I need to buy a salvage 30V 2.8 block and start over. This way I get the piston oiler set-up from the factory and all preliminary measurements & visuals show it to be a direct swap from main journals to deck oil/water jackets as well as all ancillary drive devices like water pump, PS pump etc etc.
I just dont have the heart or guts to install these Mega high-$ bottom-end components then rely on "oil splash" to supply necessary or adequate lubrication at 8-10k rpms especially since my cranks rotating diameter has been dramatically reduced and all counter-weight lobes knife-edged to minimize drag thru the oil which will also reduce splash. Example: A butcher knife blade will slice thru an oil puddle with less resultant splash and drag than its handle.
This is gonna set me back another 2 months... oh well, live & learn I guess.
#3
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I've tried to insure its doable and have checked/double checked and measured. It "appears" the block is doable but ya never "really" know these things until you're weeks and weeks into it. There may well be surprises I havent found that remain as-yet unseen. But there is likely work-arounds for those. But insufficient lubrication or even the potential for it is a definate deal-breaker for me with these internals.
#6
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head gaskets are identical when compared side-by-side or when placed over each other. However intake manifold and exhaust manifolds are radically different between the 30V/12V heads. But I have no plans on swapping either for 30V parts so that aspect doesnt concern me.
I havent heard anything empirical from anyone who's actually tried head swaps between the 2 platforms personally tho I've seen a lot of conjecture on the subject.
My needs a specifically related to sump oil squirters and piston lubrication. Given that my interests are limited excusively to a 30V block and will cost me $300 to find out. As far as "if" it will work or not at this point in time is unknown. But one thing is certain... no one will ever know until someone tries.
I havent heard anything empirical from anyone who's actually tried head swaps between the 2 platforms personally tho I've seen a lot of conjecture on the subject.
My needs a specifically related to sump oil squirters and piston lubrication. Given that my interests are limited excusively to a 30V block and will cost me $300 to find out. As far as "if" it will work or not at this point in time is unknown. But one thing is certain... no one will ever know until someone tries.