Crawling around under the CQ today, questions for the forum
06-09-2008, 06:24 AM
#11
Disagree on the Futmoto valve and the R-134a.
Not a Fumoto fan. The drain plug works fine if used correctly.
The Coupe system is designed for R12, he has R12, why not use R12? R134a might be cheaper, but is certainly is not better.
The Coupe system is designed for R12, he has R12, why not use R12? R134a might be cheaper, but is certainly is not better.
06-09-2008, 06:30 AM
#12
Some thoughts...
Get the metal vent pipe. Also remove the existing metal pipe and make sure it is clear of obstructions. Sometimes the spark arrester gets plugged up.
This is how I get the stuck plugs out. Just be careful not to slip off and punch any holes.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/43812/drainplug.jpg">
This is how I get the stuck plugs out. Just be careful not to slip off and punch any holes.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/43812/drainplug.jpg">
06-09-2008, 06:34 AM
#13
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Re: Disagree on the Futmoto valve and the R-134a.
If you read his posting, the drain plug is probably shot. If he's lucky it will come out as1 piece if not.......pray!
The Futmoto is well built, installs painlessly and works perfectly.
R12 is now obsolete. It is almost unavailable in most parts of the country and if he developes a leak in the system like these cars of this age will eventally do, he will run into this problem. Just get the headache over with and change over.
I've had the changeover done & have had no problems with my 134'd AC.
The Futmoto is well built, installs painlessly and works perfectly.
R12 is now obsolete. It is almost unavailable in most parts of the country and if he developes a leak in the system like these cars of this age will eventally do, he will run into this problem. Just get the headache over with and change over.
I've had the changeover done & have had no problems with my 134'd AC.
06-09-2008, 06:37 AM
#14
I doubt that he will have much trouble extracting the plug if he does it with...
...and impact gun or chisel.
R12 is more effient than 134a, and the Coupe system needs all the help it can get. We own two cars that run 12, and I would never consider converting.
R12 is more effient than 134a, and the Coupe system needs all the help it can get. We own two cars that run 12, and I would never consider converting.
06-09-2008, 06:46 AM
#15
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Re: I doubt that he will have much trouble extracting the plug if he does it with...
It could also be plugs like the ones I had OEM on my Coupe and on my ladies Cabbie. It varies. As for 134. I just wanted to get rid of the headache of finding R12 around the Chicao area. It does not exist around here anymore. And IF found they want a left nut for it.
06-09-2008, 07:34 AM
#16
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Forget the chisel and the impact gun...
BDTD, then bought a set of Sear's Craftsman "Bolt outs"...use the one that fits over what's left of the bolt head, on a 1/2 inch breaker bar, and it will come of without drama or risk of collateral damage...
06-09-2008, 10:14 AM
#18
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If everything else is working fine just compressor and o-rings.
The OP said he needed a compressor and hoses so it shouldn't cost him any additional.
Of course a/c is like opening the can-o-worms. A dryer is a good idea, a new orifice tube is a good idea, that condenser looks a little ratty. I ended up about $1500 into mine by the time I was done and I did all the work myself.
edit - holy crap I'm spelling worse then usual today
Of course a/c is like opening the can-o-worms. A dryer is a good idea, a new orifice tube is a good idea, that condenser looks a little ratty. I ended up about $1500 into mine by the time I was done and I did all the work myself.
edit - holy crap I'm spelling worse then usual today
06-09-2008, 10:44 AM
#19
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Thanks for all the replies...
I appreciate all the info. Since I don't have a lift (but yes I do drool at the thought of a two post lift in the garage), I plan on driving the car to a shop I trust and have them slowly break loose the drain pan bolt - I just hope it's not cross threaded or stripped. The Fumoto valve is a good suggestion but if I get the old bolt out with no damage then I will probably stick with the bolt. BTW the head of the bolt is good, not stripped.
WRT the crankcase breather, that is a weak link on the MC series too, seems from what I have read that they don't last due to the underhood heat/crankcase gases. Since its an oddball "Schnapps for Lunch" Audi-sized part, I will probably bite the bullet and get the metal one. When I got the car started I could see crankcase gases jetting out of the underside of the hose where the oil likes to pool inside the hose.
Regarding the A/C, I had the (mis)fortune of having to rebuild the A/C system on my 5ktq, went thru 2 compressors prior to that, ended up buying a brand new $700 compressor from Carlsen Audi with the then Q-list discount from Linda. I had the hoses rebuilt (they reused the old fittings and crimped on new more durable flexible hoses, the shop I used did nothing but A/C), new dryer, new orifice tube, big hole in wallet. Have a funny feeling I'm gonna end up doing the whole thing again on this car, stay tuned.
Thanks again for all the replies, and does anyone have a spare Bentley they want to sell?
WRT the crankcase breather, that is a weak link on the MC series too, seems from what I have read that they don't last due to the underhood heat/crankcase gases. Since its an oddball "Schnapps for Lunch" Audi-sized part, I will probably bite the bullet and get the metal one. When I got the car started I could see crankcase gases jetting out of the underside of the hose where the oil likes to pool inside the hose.
Regarding the A/C, I had the (mis)fortune of having to rebuild the A/C system on my 5ktq, went thru 2 compressors prior to that, ended up buying a brand new $700 compressor from Carlsen Audi with the then Q-list discount from Linda. I had the hoses rebuilt (they reused the old fittings and crimped on new more durable flexible hoses, the shop I used did nothing but A/C), new dryer, new orifice tube, big hole in wallet. Have a funny feeling I'm gonna end up doing the whole thing again on this car, stay tuned.
Thanks again for all the replies, and does anyone have a spare Bentley they want to sell?
06-09-2008, 04:34 PM
#20
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Type 89 cars do not have a heater valve
They run flow to the heater core all the time and duct the air. This is one reason the Type 89's go through heater cores.
Your hot air problem is undoubtedly a flapper that is not going where it is told. Either a broken spring or vacuum leaks are causing your issue. I believe the Bentley has a troubleshooting procedure. There are also some error codes you can access from the climate control head to help direct your efforts.<ul><li><a href="http://www.20v.org/climate.htm">20v.org has info on the climate control</a></li></ul>
Your hot air problem is undoubtedly a flapper that is not going where it is told. Either a broken spring or vacuum leaks are causing your issue. I believe the Bentley has a troubleshooting procedure. There are also some error codes you can access from the climate control head to help direct your efforts.<ul><li><a href="http://www.20v.org/climate.htm">20v.org has info on the climate control</a></li></ul>