DIY silicone hoses - hokie, crazycab
#1
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i have the image in larger format if anyone wants/needs it. done for under 200.
I moved my MAF back away from the cone filter a bit because i was having trouble with air flow not coming in correctly across the sensors. It works great in this configuration. I do need to fabricate a new fitting to connect from my MAF to the silicone hoses. That is the only area that needs to be addressed in this setup.
i have the image in larger format if anyone wants/needs it. done for under 200.
I moved my MAF back away from the cone filter a bit because i was having trouble with air flow not coming in correctly across the sensors. It works great in this configuration. I do need to fabricate a new fitting to connect from my MAF to the silicone hoses. That is the only area that needs to be addressed in this setup.
#2
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My cone setup has been running flawless for several years now...
What type of MAF are you running? MAF adapter?
My cone setup has been running flawless for several years now...
What type of MAF are you running? MAF adapter?
#3
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when i had installed my filter that close to the MAF, it was slightly angled, thereby causing the air to not pass over the sensors correctly. Plus i had a few vacume leaks. took me a month to figure out all the problems. but works fine now. I'm sure if i was to swap mine back the other way, it would work just fine also.
#5
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i did a lot of other stuff around the same time. I'm not changing it around so i'm not going to be the guinnea pig to find out. If any gains, prolly minimal at best.
#7
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Many cone filters have a velocity stack built in, or you can get a standalone VS for that very purpose from Mance.
What did you do with the crankcase breather hoses?
What did you do with the crankcase breather hoses?
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#8
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quickly when air passes thru it and makes a right angle turn. It can absolutely help but it cant completely do its job in that location. Even the guys who do custom MAF/calibration tuning wont tune a MAF with a cone attached to the MAF housing via an adapter sleeve. They all use a 12" long piece of tubing between the cone filter and the MAF housing. Hook a voltmeter up to the sensor and compare the MAF output signals on a MAF housing while blipping the throttle and you'll see why. Its output voltage is too erratic, fluctuates all over the place. Do it with an extension hose involved and it smooths out. The key is finding the precise length required. Too long and vacuum is created in the induction tract (negative boost). Too short and the MAF sampling/output voltages are erratic.
The stock airbox sees much less of that type turbulence due to air already traveling parallel to the MAF housing when it exits the filter media.
The extended tube on a cone set-up should provide far cleaner (less turbulent) air as well as reduced boundary layer disturbences within the air column. If I were running a cone I would definately use a length of tubing between MAF & filter.
The stock airbox sees much less of that type turbulence due to air already traveling parallel to the MAF housing when it exits the filter media.
The extended tube on a cone set-up should provide far cleaner (less turbulent) air as well as reduced boundary layer disturbences within the air column. If I were running a cone I would definately use a length of tubing between MAF & filter.
#10
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between the MAF & adapter?
Is the MAF bored?
How well does the MAF adapter fit, inside near the MAF? My old(TAP 1) MAF adapter didnt fit right, and if not centered correctly, would cause the MAF sensor problems.
Theres more to this than were aware presently of... ;O)
between the MAF & adapter?
Is the MAF bored?
How well does the MAF adapter fit, inside near the MAF? My old(TAP 1) MAF adapter didnt fit right, and if not centered correctly, would cause the MAF sensor problems.
Theres more to this than were aware presently of... ;O)