Engine Swapping
#1
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My current engine has an original 118,000+ miles on it. Ive been thinking about swapping it into a "newer" engine. I own a 1992 Audi 80, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4 door. Any insight on what types of engines I would be able to fit, cost of the engine, and how much the labor would be.
#2
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well, any 5cyl will work (could through a 2.5L 10v from a eurovan in there). however, some will be cheaper and easier than others. any CIS engine (which rules out any 20v 5cyl) will be the easiest. sticking with a norm. aspir. 10v will be by far the cheapest and easiest. one thing you could do, is get one of those Eurospec stroker rotating assemblies for $1050 and have that put into your block (get the 2480cc version, no head spacer needed, and you'll be at a 10:1CR, port your "big valve" head and put a more aggressive cam in it, and you'll have a lot more power everywhere). you'd spend about $2.2k for that, with out labor however.
you can also recondition your current engine for much less in parts (same labor as putting a stroker in it), and do some head work (mild port, cam). knock about $1k off the price for a full rebuild plus cam/port work (rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, etc). don't forget, labor depends on the shop, and its hard to say how many hours it will take. ask me in a couple months and i may have a better idea of how long it'd take...
also, when i tore down the 86k mile long block i have, there was almost zero wear on the bearings (any of them), as well as the factory cross-hatch was still visible on the cylinder walls. you may just need new gaskets (oil pan, head, valve cover) along with a tune up to bring your 10v back up to snuff...if you want more go, port the head and stick a bigger cam in there (or bigger valves, don't really need both unless you want a shorter duration and lower lift cam, but want the airflow of a long dur/high lift cam w/out some of the lumpy idle). you may also be able to run a fuel enrichment device from a VW 8v, or use the 10v turbo fuel meter head to gain more fuel (could also raise the fuel pressure up, i think, don't remember the entire CIS setup).
you can also recondition your current engine for much less in parts (same labor as putting a stroker in it), and do some head work (mild port, cam). knock about $1k off the price for a full rebuild plus cam/port work (rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, etc). don't forget, labor depends on the shop, and its hard to say how many hours it will take. ask me in a couple months and i may have a better idea of how long it'd take...
also, when i tore down the 86k mile long block i have, there was almost zero wear on the bearings (any of them), as well as the factory cross-hatch was still visible on the cylinder walls. you may just need new gaskets (oil pan, head, valve cover) along with a tune up to bring your 10v back up to snuff...if you want more go, port the head and stick a bigger cam in there (or bigger valves, don't really need both unless you want a shorter duration and lower lift cam, but want the airflow of a long dur/high lift cam w/out some of the lumpy idle). you may also be able to run a fuel enrichment device from a VW 8v, or use the 10v turbo fuel meter head to gain more fuel (could also raise the fuel pressure up, i think, don't remember the entire CIS setup).
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