exhaust clamps
09-23-2009, 11:17 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
exhaust clamps
underneath my car there is two clamps on each exhust , they allow you to adjust the exhust to match with the cat converter, mine always leak and make tonnes of nois until warmed up . I see water dripping from them which is obviously condensation . i can't for the life of me seam to stop the exhaust leak at this location, is this nomal > I can put my hand under and realy fel it blowing.
09-23-2009, 05:10 PM
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
Re: two exhaust clamps, leak, noise, drip; & "is this normal?"
Of course not.
Is this a V6 perhaps? Mine only has the clamps/length adj. on one branch (RH side if IIRC?).
Does the clamp look like this (OEM VW 2-Clamp & Coupling Assy):
http://www.fourtitude.com/gallery/ge...scaled_600.jpg
If so, I may have some suggestions.
Is this a V6 perhaps? Mine only has the clamps/length adj. on one branch (RH side if IIRC?).
Does the clamp look like this (OEM VW 2-Clamp & Coupling Assy):
http://www.fourtitude.com/gallery/ge...scaled_600.jpg
If so, I may have some suggestions.
09-23-2009, 07:58 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Not exactly but same idea. it is a metal sleeve that wraps around the connection and has two clamps that look like yours.
Yes it is a v6 sorry for not mentioning that. i have tried new clamps, exhaust goop, you name it , but it still blows like a banshee out there .. I wonder if my exhasut is plugged or something causing back pressure..
Yes it is a v6 sorry for not mentioning that. i have tried new clamps, exhaust goop, you name it , but it still blows like a banshee out there .. I wonder if my exhasut is plugged or something causing back pressure..
09-23-2009, 08:00 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
i like your clamps better , mine are the cheap U clamps you but at the auto store. Yours look like about an inch wide. I am sure that would help.
09-25-2009, 02:30 PM
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
Re-clamping a B4 OEM Exhaust...
Those aren't mine BTW, I just borrowed that (VW) photo because they are similar. Those (in photo) are the OEM plain steel clamps, with OEM plain steel fasteners, on an OEM stainless steel (S/S) sleeve. This is what your car came with. When new, they are "better" as they are indeed "about an inch wide" and clamp very well without crimping the sleeve etc. However the clamps & fasteners rust, loosen, the coupling then leaks. Eventually they fail, fall off and are often replaced with "cheap" American style saddle clamps. What I found on my car was just the saddles, two pair, no U-bolts, just straight bolts, which will work, but as they were just plain steel, they failed too.
What I did to compromise between the OEM & Saddle style was two things:
a.) doubled the number of clamps I used on the sleeve; and
b.) bought S/S saddle clamps at Canadian Tire (an in-stock item, see photo).
What this does is allow me to spread the clamping force required over a much greater area around the outside of the sleeve, similar to the wide foot-print of the OEM clamps.
Place them in pairs at each end of the sleeve, close on either side of the sleeve-dimples that located the OEM clamps.
Mount them with the saddles on top and the U-bolts opening upward, then tilt if/as required for clearance. This garners you the most ground clearance, but not quite as much as OEM.
Because of the wide foot-print of the four clamps, and the shoring effect of the OEM sleeve underneath, the clamping force each clamp has to deliver, to effect a complete seal of the coupling, is reduced. That translates into less torque required on each individual nut.
In this fashion, no crushing of the tubes is required to get the secure fastening and perfect sealing required; and you have a rust-free coupling that will remain service-able for years.
For some exhaust ground-clearance ideas & further sealing help, see also:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...8#post23795488
Hope this helps.
What I did to compromise between the OEM & Saddle style was two things:
a.) doubled the number of clamps I used on the sleeve; and
b.) bought S/S saddle clamps at Canadian Tire (an in-stock item, see photo).
What this does is allow me to spread the clamping force required over a much greater area around the outside of the sleeve, similar to the wide foot-print of the OEM clamps.
Place them in pairs at each end of the sleeve, close on either side of the sleeve-dimples that located the OEM clamps.
Mount them with the saddles on top and the U-bolts opening upward, then tilt if/as required for clearance. This garners you the most ground clearance, but not quite as much as OEM.
Because of the wide foot-print of the four clamps, and the shoring effect of the OEM sleeve underneath, the clamping force each clamp has to deliver, to effect a complete seal of the coupling, is reduced. That translates into less torque required on each individual nut.
In this fashion, no crushing of the tubes is required to get the secure fastening and perfect sealing required; and you have a rust-free coupling that will remain service-able for years.
For some exhaust ground-clearance ideas & further sealing help, see also:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...8#post23795488
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Lago Blue; 09-29-2009 at 02:22 PM.
09-25-2009, 09:50 PM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Those aren't mine BTW, I just borrowed that (VW) photo because they are similar. Those (in photo) are the OEM plain steel clamps, with OEM plain steel fasteners, on an OEM stainless steel (S/S) sleeve. This is what your car came with. When new, they are "better" as they are indeed "about an inch wide" and clamp very well without crimping the sleeve etc. However the clamps & fasteners rust, loosen, the coupling then leaks. Eventually they fail, fall off and are often replaced with "cheap" American style saddle clamps. What I found on my car was just the saddles, two pair, no U-bolts, just straight bolts, which will work, but as they were just plain steel, they failed too.
What I did to compromise between the OEM & Saddle style was two things:
a.) doubled the number of clamps I used on the sleeve; and
b.) bought S/S saddle clamps at Canadian Tire (an in-stock item, see photo).
What this does is allow me to spread the clamping force required over a much greater area around the outside of the sleeve, similar to the wide foot-print of the OEM clamps.
Place them in pairs at each end of the sleeve, close on either side of the sleeve-dimples that located the OEM clamps.
Mount them with the saddles on top and the U-bolts opening upward, then tilt if/as required for clearance. This garners you the most ground clearance, but not quite as much as OEM.
Because of the wide foot-print of the four clamps, and the shoring effect of the OEM sleeve underneath, the clamping force each clamp has to deliver, to effect a complete seal of the coupling, is reduced. That translates into less torque required on each individual nut.
In this fashion, no crushing of the tubes is required to get the secure fastening and perfect sealing required; and you have a rust-free coupling that will remain service-able for years.
For some exhaust ground-clearance ideas & further sealing help, see also:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...8#post23795488
Hope this helps.
What I did to compromise between the OEM & Saddle style was two things:
a.) doubled the number of clamps I used on the sleeve; and
b.) bought S/S saddle clamps at Canadian Tire (an in-stock item, see photo).
What this does is allow me to spread the clamping force required over a much greater area around the outside of the sleeve, similar to the wide foot-print of the OEM clamps.
Place them in pairs at each end of the sleeve, close on either side of the sleeve-dimples that located the OEM clamps.
Mount them with the saddles on top and the U-bolts opening upward, then tilt if/as required for clearance. This garners you the most ground clearance, but not quite as much as OEM.
Because of the wide foot-print of the four clamps, and the shoring effect of the OEM sleeve underneath, the clamping force each clamp has to deliver, to effect a complete seal of the coupling, is reduced. That translates into less torque required on each individual nut.
In this fashion, no crushing of the tubes is required to get the secure fastening and perfect sealing required; and you have a rust-free coupling that will remain service-able for years.
For some exhaust ground-clearance ideas & further sealing help, see also:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...8#post23795488
Hope this helps.
is it okay to have the moisture leak out ? or is this a sign of me not having it sealed correctly ?
Thanks for the help ..
09-25-2009, 10:05 PM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I will head out to Canadian Tire tomorrow and pick up some more clamps and try it again. I will probably cut the current ones off and start fresh. i think there are two slevves if I remember correctly and I put the cut in each sleeve 180 degrees apart to get the best seal possible,
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09-25-2009, 10:08 PM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
new aproach
I will head out to Canadian Tire tomorrow and pick up some more clamps and try it again. I will probably cut the current ones off and start fresh. i think there are two sleeves if I remember correctly and I put the cut in each sleeve 180 degrees apart to get the best seal possible,would it not make sense to have one uclamp pointing up and the other pointing down at each end ? i am not realy concerned about ground clearance and this may provide a better overall clamping force all around ..
Thoughts ??
Thoughts ??
09-26-2009, 10:51 AM
#9
AudiWorld Senior Member
Re: your new aproach...
That is an interesting idea but it may not be necessary. Remember, the two halves are simply being drawn toward one-another and I don't believe that alternating them will net you any improved sealing. If the existing pipes and sleeve are out of round, that might prevent a seal in any case.
The clamps I got fit so well (I may have had to spread the U-bolts slightly), that there simply was no day-light between the sleeve, U-bolts & saddles. It is more work to position them 'nuts-up' as I've described however...
It is always better to have the extra ground clearance and never think you'll use or need it, than only need it once; and not have it.
Besides, it just plain makes for a lot cleaner looking installation with the clamp-saddles hidden up top. I've had no issues with clearance to the shields above this location.
I had to ask for the S.S. clamps at the counter, they had neither any idea that they existed, nor that they had any.
The clamps I got fit so well (I may have had to spread the U-bolts slightly), that there simply was no day-light between the sleeve, U-bolts & saddles. It is more work to position them 'nuts-up' as I've described however...
It is always better to have the extra ground clearance and never think you'll use or need it, than only need it once; and not have it.
Besides, it just plain makes for a lot cleaner looking installation with the clamp-saddles hidden up top. I've had no issues with clearance to the shields above this location.
I had to ask for the S.S. clamps at the counter, they had neither any idea that they existed, nor that they had any.
Last edited by Lago Blue; 10-17-2009 at 02:01 PM. Reason: clarity
09-28-2009, 02:16 PM
#10
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Good tip. i iwll ask for the stainless. i spent the weekend polishing the car so didn't have a chance to get underneath , but i can hear the noise from under the front seats when my wife starts her up, i am not sure i can even get a wrench in if i put the sadles up top. did you drop the back of the exhaust at all to be able to do it / i also saw the correct clamps at autohauaz so that might be another way to go . i can go over to buffalo and go pick them up . for 30.00 Us i can fix both sides once and for all.