coupesta

what are your thoughts for the 20V? flow should be improved (speed).. are hp gains worth the dough?? tia.. tsivas

quattromano

Interesting question. Can Extrude Hone provide answers?

coupesta

just been searching the internet.. nothing really out there for audis, esp 20V. i figured id try here first. tsivas

Audi Ryder

Meaning- If you're building a race motor, high boost, 100oct. fuel, etc., then extrudehoning will be worth it for you. Extrudehoning the intake manifold really won't be worth the money if you're just driving around and looking for more performance. The best option for improving your everyday performance is adding a turbo. So save your money, and leave extrudehoning for those running high boost in motorsport=-)
Still, from the looks of your sig you've done a hell of alot to your mill already, so you may see sense in doing it.

<a href="www.boykinracing.us/index3.htm">TurboWorks</a>

cuatrokoop

well...YOU are looking to get the very last bit of power out of your 7A (which I applaud!). If I were you, I'd look into extrude-hone'ing the IM, boring and sleeving the throttle, and figuring out how to get rid of the POS MAF sensor.

I'd also think about running a new fuel rail, Adjustable FPR, and new injectors. Inconjunction, run an S-AFC to allow the higher flow injectors to work better with your cams, intake mods, and exhaust system.

BTW, after the ExtrudeHone, send it off to JetHot, along with your header. May even do the valve cover while your at it, to cut down on heat soak even more.

These were all things I was planning on doing, in conjuntion with a possible 92.8mm stroke crank (S-AFC + injectors/rail/AFPR would let me get more fuel into the mix).

coupesta

first of all... i was contemplating an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to be better able to tune the car under the bottle. what do you recommend?? aem has an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that looks pretty nice. secondly, how do i deal with this crappy MAF? what other options are there or modifications can i do to existing one? finally, as far as new injectors are concerned.. i really dont want to go into advanced electronics.. stand alone etc.. too much dough. i just want this to hold me over til i can get the 20Vt motor. so basically, the setup will be the zex 65 shot, with an A/F meter that monitors lean/rich and immediately shuts off nitrous when either condition is noted because it works with nitrous kit and 02 sensor, its a little more money but its worth it, an EGT guage to also help tune and monitor car more, a bottle heater, and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. i dont think the timing can be retarted (per TAP-- the tech said there were too many sensors..i dont know) and that the timing was "a little advanced" whatever that meant. so the msd is probably out of question. and i might extrude hone my intake manifold for a better flow. any other suggestions?? youve been great help. tsivas

cuatrokoop

To figure out what MAF solution there is, you'll have to get a bunch of readings (voltage vs load, where load(RPM,throttle position). You'll have to try to match it up with another 4 wire harness MAF (possibly a V6 maf? or a 20vt? I dunno, never logged one).

Pretty much any decent A-FPR that has a gauge tap (or comes with a gauge) will be fine. You can get some lessor expensive ones meant for certain Mustangs that run a higher pressure, more like our systems vs. the typical low PSI that Ford uses. Definately run one if you don't want to run new injectors/rail on your 7A.

I'm not sure why you couldn't mess with the timing, as the cam sensor (on the distributor) is really only for the "start/no-start" parameter of the ECU, along with one of the sensors on the flywheel. Timing advance/retard on the 7A, AFAIK, only happens if/when the knock sensors detect preignition. Otherwise, its just a table of preset values.

Sounds like you have the proper kit, has good options and extras...You should be all set with that. You may not even need to screw with the MAF at all (I'll venture that you won't, since the bottle will feed in more O2 to combust, and you'll have a higher FP to supply more fuel).