funky AC
06-25-2008, 05:24 AM
#1
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funky AC
cruising down the freeway and I turn on the AC, car bucks as the compressor turns on and off constantly making a click.
just low on freon?
The dude I bought the car off of 5 years ago spent 2K and replaced everything AC related so it should all work.
not sure how much leakage even good systems do but it has not been charged in 5+ years.
just low on freon?
The dude I bought the car off of 5 years ago spent 2K and replaced everything AC related so it should all work.
not sure how much leakage even good systems do but it has not been charged in 5+ years.
06-25-2008, 05:31 AM
#2
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Take it to a qualified shop to have them diagnose it.
It's most definitely not freon.
"good" systems don't leak.
5 years is a significant amount of time. Almost 1/3 of your car's life. If he had to do major work to it 5 years ago, then it's probably gonna need major work now.
Sometimes you get a 12 yearold car and the a/c works flawlessly and has never had any work done to it at all. And sometimes you get a 4 year old car that needs constant repair work and the a/c never functions properly.
"good" systems don't leak.
5 years is a significant amount of time. Almost 1/3 of your car's life. If he had to do major work to it 5 years ago, then it's probably gonna need major work now.
Sometimes you get a 12 yearold car and the a/c works flawlessly and has never had any work done to it at all. And sometimes you get a 4 year old car that needs constant repair work and the a/c never functions properly.
06-25-2008, 07:55 AM
#3
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true
well at roughly 9yr old he replaced everything just to freshen it up and I have hardly used it since. I can't see any reason 5 yr old brand new AC items can be shot already.
oddly the shop that did my tb, well the lower coolant lines the bolt is missing so those dumbasses probably took that line off even though it was not in the way and let all the freon out.
this is the same shop that mixed dexcool with G12 even though I told them a few times you cannot and they gave me that "we know what we are doing" line but apparently they don't.
I am draining my coolant right now actually, running a flush and doing it myself then adding G12.
they also replaced all the OE black allen bolts on the flywheel with shiny hardened bolts. I don't know if that is a big deal as long as it works and they were torqued down correctly.
oddly the shop that did my tb, well the lower coolant lines the bolt is missing so those dumbasses probably took that line off even though it was not in the way and let all the freon out.
this is the same shop that mixed dexcool with G12 even though I told them a few times you cannot and they gave me that "we know what we are doing" line but apparently they don't.
I am draining my coolant right now actually, running a flush and doing it myself then adding G12.
they also replaced all the OE black allen bolts on the flywheel with shiny hardened bolts. I don't know if that is a big deal as long as it works and they were torqued down correctly.
06-25-2008, 10:02 AM
#6
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true as well
I did use it here and there in the summer and I have read where even in winter to turn it on once in awhile.
its mainly to keep the seals moist as R12 or R134 had some lube properties sorta.
worst case it evaporates or leaks out a bit which in my case probably happened.
I'll just need to take it somewhere, have them test and charge it if needed.
downfall is AC does rob the engine of some power and even though the V6 is not a total dog you can feel it being more sluggish.
its mainly to keep the seals moist as R12 or R134 had some lube properties sorta.
worst case it evaporates or leaks out a bit which in my case probably happened.
I'll just need to take it somewhere, have them test and charge it if needed.
downfall is AC does rob the engine of some power and even though the V6 is not a total dog you can feel it being more sluggish.
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06-26-2008, 05:43 AM
#8
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to what degree?
it does look as if the union was broke but it's odd the bolt that holds the harness holder down is missing the bolt and the thin metal sleeve is somewhat bent.
I am baffled why on earth they would even touch this, its below the crank and is nowhere near in the way of doing a TB change.
for a fairly well recommended shop this place so far sucks big time.
Hell they replaced all the factory black 12 point bolts with run of the mill silver hex bolts.
they are 8.8 hardened but still, it does make me a bit leery if they did everything correct.
I am baffled why on earth they would even touch this, its below the crank and is nowhere near in the way of doing a TB change.
for a fairly well recommended shop this place so far sucks big time.
Hell they replaced all the factory black 12 point bolts with run of the mill silver hex bolts.
they are 8.8 hardened but still, it does make me a bit leery if they did everything correct.
06-26-2008, 08:47 AM
#9
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It really depends how long the line was exposed to the air/moisture...
You might need to vacuum the A/C system...
"When you vacuum an A/C system, you're not cleaning it, you are removing AIR and MOISTURE. A vacuum pump is connected to the yellow hose of a manifold gauge set. The pump pulls all of the air out of the system. Also, water 'boils' in a vacuum, so all the moisture is removed from the system. Air and moisture are harmful to an A/C system, because they react with refrigerant, and create an acid that can damage or destroy seals and o-rings.
A vacuum is pulled AFTER all the components have been replaced and the system is sealed up, but BEFORE refrigerant is added. Typically, the vacuum pump should be left running for about 1 hour, longer in especially humid climates, or when the A/C system has been left open to air for an extended amount of time. A vacuum must be pulled anytime the system has been exposed to air, or had a toal loss of refrigerant."
"When you vacuum an A/C system, you're not cleaning it, you are removing AIR and MOISTURE. A vacuum pump is connected to the yellow hose of a manifold gauge set. The pump pulls all of the air out of the system. Also, water 'boils' in a vacuum, so all the moisture is removed from the system. Air and moisture are harmful to an A/C system, because they react with refrigerant, and create an acid that can damage or destroy seals and o-rings.
A vacuum is pulled AFTER all the components have been replaced and the system is sealed up, but BEFORE refrigerant is added. Typically, the vacuum pump should be left running for about 1 hour, longer in especially humid climates, or when the A/C system has been left open to air for an extended amount of time. A vacuum must be pulled anytime the system has been exposed to air, or had a toal loss of refrigerant."
06-26-2008, 12:08 PM
#10
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does not look as if it was broken
the lines are all solid, in fact I can't really see any unions around that area so right now either the bolt made its way out of the bracket or they removed it maybe to use somewhere else.
I would not be surprised if they just pirated the bolt, it seems kinda odd.
I guess the silver hardened hex bolts will work in other places but OE 12 point hardened bolts I would have rather seen replaced.
car works so far but its almost to the point I cross my fingers for time down the road.
I would not be surprised if they just pirated the bolt, it seems kinda odd.
I guess the silver hardened hex bolts will work in other places but OE 12 point hardened bolts I would have rather seen replaced.
car works so far but its almost to the point I cross my fingers for time down the road.