Help With a Brake Issue - 1991 90q20v
#1
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I'm looking for a little help in diagnosing a chronic braking issue. I searched the archives, but nothing really similar to my issue came up. Here is a summary of what is going on:
1. ABS is completely inactive. The ABS has not worked since I purchased the car. There is no ABS light on, nor does the ABS light turn on when you start the car. I can hear a relay switching when I hit the Anti-Lock button, but no "Anti-Lock Off" light comes on. Not Having ABS doesnt really worry me, but it may be contributing the problems below.
2. When applying the brakes directly after starting and moving the car, the pedal is very stiff and the brakes don't seem to actuate. Releasing the pedal and getting on it again causes the pedal to drop slightly to a "normal" position and the brakes function fine. This usually happens only for the first 2 or 3 stops, and then the brakes are fine. The super-stiff pedal is accompanied by a whirring noise from the engine bay which disappears after the release and re-application of the brakes.
3. Sometimes after a longer stint of driving, the pedal drops down below the "normal" position. The brakes still function fine apart from this increased pedal length. Pumping the brakes does not trip the brake light in the cluster, and does not rectify the problem. After a bit of driving, the brake pedal sometimes stiffens up to it's "normal" position.
I'm just looking for a likely culprit or a place to start.
Thanks,
Mike
1. ABS is completely inactive. The ABS has not worked since I purchased the car. There is no ABS light on, nor does the ABS light turn on when you start the car. I can hear a relay switching when I hit the Anti-Lock button, but no "Anti-Lock Off" light comes on. Not Having ABS doesnt really worry me, but it may be contributing the problems below.
2. When applying the brakes directly after starting and moving the car, the pedal is very stiff and the brakes don't seem to actuate. Releasing the pedal and getting on it again causes the pedal to drop slightly to a "normal" position and the brakes function fine. This usually happens only for the first 2 or 3 stops, and then the brakes are fine. The super-stiff pedal is accompanied by a whirring noise from the engine bay which disappears after the release and re-application of the brakes.
3. Sometimes after a longer stint of driving, the pedal drops down below the "normal" position. The brakes still function fine apart from this increased pedal length. Pumping the brakes does not trip the brake light in the cluster, and does not rectify the problem. After a bit of driving, the brake pedal sometimes stiffens up to it's "normal" position.
I'm just looking for a likely culprit or a place to start.
Thanks,
Mike
#2
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on the relay associated with the ABS computer. it's a long shot but maybe it's blown...hell, maybe that relay is fubar.
#4
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Repair kits are only $4 or so a piece. Pull a front wheel off and look at where the caliper slides on the carrier. There are 2 accordian looking boots that are probably in tatters. Remove caliper from carrier (noteasy sometimes) wire wheel, emery cloth, Q-tips, etc until clean inside and out. Re-grease, re-install, re-peat 3 times, re-liefe.
#5
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Then see if your ABS light works.
second, I would go to dealership or someone who carries Hydrolic MINERAL oil, Use a turkey baster and pull out a little bit of your current oil and make sure its a nice green color, if it is not flush all that oil and re fill with your new oil you just bought, if it is a good looking green, add a little bit and see if that reduces the noise coming from your engine on start up and it it improves your brake feeling...
second and a half, check for leaks around the big X bolt on your powersteering pump (check while car is running) might be bubbling, if so order rebuild kit from autohausaz.com or elsewere... costs about 6 bucks. or 80 something from the dealer...
Third, if you are still having problems read www.20v.org regarding BOMB and see if the symptoms match and act accordingly.
I have 2 91 90q20v's and have had a few people tell me the bomb was bad when infact it was only the fluid that was bad and changing it fixed my problem completely.
second, I would go to dealership or someone who carries Hydrolic MINERAL oil, Use a turkey baster and pull out a little bit of your current oil and make sure its a nice green color, if it is not flush all that oil and re fill with your new oil you just bought, if it is a good looking green, add a little bit and see if that reduces the noise coming from your engine on start up and it it improves your brake feeling...
second and a half, check for leaks around the big X bolt on your powersteering pump (check while car is running) might be bubbling, if so order rebuild kit from autohausaz.com or elsewere... costs about 6 bucks. or 80 something from the dealer...
Third, if you are still having problems read www.20v.org regarding BOMB and see if the symptoms match and act accordingly.
I have 2 91 90q20v's and have had a few people tell me the bomb was bad when infact it was only the fluid that was bad and changing it fixed my problem completely.
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