HELP!!! Engine Overheating/ Problem with Coolant after a timebelt/waterpump job
#1
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Hello,
I had a timing belt job done two weeks ago (water pump, timing belt, serpentine belt replaced). Shortly after getting my audi cabriolet 94 from the mechanic, the coolant light started flashing. After driving for 30 minutes, I stopped the car and added some antifreeze. I called the mechanic and he told me that it was due to the fact that new water pump was absorbing the antrifreeze he just put, so it was normal that I needed more.
I started monitoring my coolant level for a week and while it did fluctuate significantly from cold to warm engine, I didn't worry.
Last night, I drove for 5 minutes and I started observing the coolant temperature sensor and it was getting hotter and hotter at a faster rate that I would normally expect. I stopped the car, opened and noticed that the coolant was boiling and overflowing from the top of its tank.
I waited till this morning where I got up and looked at the coolant level and it was GONE! Totally EMPTY.
I tried to add some anti-freeze and drove the car for less than 5 minutes and there again, the temperature indicator was rising at an unacceptable rate.
My theory is that the water pump is not functioning properly. Any suggestions? what shall I do?
I had a timing belt job done two weeks ago (water pump, timing belt, serpentine belt replaced). Shortly after getting my audi cabriolet 94 from the mechanic, the coolant light started flashing. After driving for 30 minutes, I stopped the car and added some antifreeze. I called the mechanic and he told me that it was due to the fact that new water pump was absorbing the antrifreeze he just put, so it was normal that I needed more.
I started monitoring my coolant level for a week and while it did fluctuate significantly from cold to warm engine, I didn't worry.
Last night, I drove for 5 minutes and I started observing the coolant temperature sensor and it was getting hotter and hotter at a faster rate that I would normally expect. I stopped the car, opened and noticed that the coolant was boiling and overflowing from the top of its tank.
I waited till this morning where I got up and looked at the coolant level and it was GONE! Totally EMPTY.
I tried to add some anti-freeze and drove the car for less than 5 minutes and there again, the temperature indicator was rising at an unacceptable rate.
My theory is that the water pump is not functioning properly. Any suggestions? what shall I do?
#2
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Your suppose to flush the coolant when you change the H2O pump but do not have to. If you dont drain it you loose alot when you pull off the old pump so you have to add some. I can not see how you could put the pump in wrong. Maybe your guy did drain it and did not tighten it up enough. Check to see where it is leaking from
#3
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when your car is totally cold (sitting for more than 2 hours) open the coolant cap and add coolant. When it is topped up, there is a little plastic screw on one of the heater core coolant lines that leads into the firewall. Open it up and it will let the air out of the system. add more coolant to top it off.
you have to mix coolant half half with water...
Did you replace the thermostat?
did you place the thermostat correctly with the relief valve pointed upwards?
you have to mix coolant half half with water...
Did you replace the thermostat?
did you place the thermostat correctly with the relief valve pointed upwards?
#4
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Two days ago the same thing happened to me, except that I didn't change my belts and wp yet. however, one day it just started to run hot until the needle came to the first dot on the right side of the gauge. the antifreeze started boiling and the next day it was empty (this is good because the hot antifreeze had somewhere to escape, this was through a safety valve). later i diagnosed the problem to be with the thermostat. maybe you have the same problem (the symptoms are the same).
there's my two cents.
there's my two cents.
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#8
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There is 2 air-bleed screws on the V6 motor.
One on the upper heater core hose, the other near the EGR valve. Item #12.
#12 must be bled! It actually traps air the other cannot release.
The trapped air can actually "lock" the thermostat
closed, and rupture your heater core!
Bleed the excess air. Replace it with a water & antifreeze mix of 50/50(Florida).
There is 2 air-bleed screws on the V6 motor.
One on the upper heater core hose, the other near the EGR valve. Item #12.
#12 must be bled! It actually traps air the other cannot release.
The trapped air can actually "lock" the thermostat
closed, and rupture your heater core!
Bleed the excess air. Replace it with a water & antifreeze mix of 50/50(Florida).