sidespar

I finally got the old ones out (what a PITA, I have no idea how I'm going to get them back in let alone figuring out how to get a torque wrench in there to torque them correctly. Anyway, I'm looking at my new one vs. my old one in this picture. The new one came to me loose. That is, when I turn the nut on 'A', then 'B' comes loose. How do I get them both tight and to the right distance apart? I don't really know how tie rods are supposed to work or how they are supposed to stay tight. If someone could school me on this real quick, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12726/100_0676_copy.jpg">

awdaudi

wrench on the silver nut tightening it down against whichever side you are working with. By side I mean whichever end of the threaded rod that goes into both the main tie rod and the end. I'd try to make it about as close to the same size as the old one (in length) as I could before trying to install it on the car. Take the tie rod end off and you should easily figure out how the setup works and how you make adjustments to it. The threaded rod inside the tie rod can be adjusted to give enough length for the the tie rod end to be adjusted and get proper toe.
I don't know if what I said makes any sense or not...?

Lago Blue

...You are trying to install the new one such that you can drive -directly- to the alignment shop , and arrive there safely.

You are going make the new one as identical to the old one, as possible. You will do this by adjusting the effective length; the end orientation; and by locking the assembly in that position.

The smaller diameter six-sided black shaft between A &amp; B is the length adjustment "turn-buckle", it has opposing threads on either end. The silver nuts on either side are the lock-nuts.

The two black collars outboard of the nuts are not threaded, but have conical insides which will mate with, and compress both the rod-end and the long tube's female threads onto the black "turn-buckle's" threaded shafts. This occurs when the lock-nuts press the collars home.

You will want the ball &amp; socket base of the tie-rod (the outboard end) to sit squarely under the steering arm it attaches to when installed. The rubber boot (under the, by then removed, shipping-shield in your photo) will -not- appear tilted when you have achieved this.

As for myself, I dis-assemble the turn-buckle and coat everything with non-hardening rust-proofing tar before installation; and again on the outside only, after the alignment is completed.

You are going to get your adjustment as close as possible before you install it. You are also going to ensure to keep the number of threads engaged on either side of the black nut identical. Then finally, torque the nuts after you have achieved the fore-going.

Does that suffice?

awdaudi

meh.. macro vs. micro. 8-)

Ghostfire

Put the new unit on the exact amount of turns. Tighten the all the bolts dont worry about torque on the outer tie rod.

sidespar

I have never had such difficulty on anything before. As you can see in the picture, I took the entire housing off in order to disconnect the inners. Getting that thing off and BACK ON was such a pita. There was no way for me to torque wrench those bolts because I could barely get a regular wrench on them.

Is there some sort of secret to making this job easier? Do you have to take that housing (where the inners are connected) off? I spent probably 4 hours on it yesterday and am still not done.

koopS2

When CVtech helped me out with my car, he suggested leaving those all lubbed up with antiseize.

Who ever is doing your alignment will thank you.