How to hold the camshaft gear steady while removing the bolt, w/o...
#1
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Audi Special Tool 2048? Any ideas? I need to replace the rear timing cover because of a broken rusted bolt. So, the camshaft gear needs to come off. Water pump too, I guess.
MikTip? Repeater? Cuattrokoop? OWDLVR? Others?
Use locktite on the bolt when the camshaft gear goes back on? any help or suggestions appreciated....
MikTip? Repeater? Cuattrokoop? OWDLVR? Others?
Use locktite on the bolt when the camshaft gear goes back on? any help or suggestions appreciated....
#2
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I simply tossed my impact-gun to the front of the cam and let it have it :-)
Now, on Audi number two this worked like a charm. On Audi number three it spun the entire engine assembly...so I had to reset TDC.
I then grabbed the ever important "SYVAGST-T" (Screw you VAG special tools-tool). A big long pry-bar.
I was able to slide it through a hole in the cam-gear, wedge it against either the head or valve-cover and pop the cam bolt no problem.
As for loctite, Bentley doesn't specifically say you should use it. It just says 59 ft lbs on the torque setting.
Audi number one got no loctite, audi number two got a small amount of blue loctite...like a very tiny amount. Just for 'insurance'.
The crank bolt, however, DOES require loctite...red loctite at that.
There have been some reports recently about the 20v cam gears stripping at the woodruff key slot. There is specualtion that this is caused by the cam bolt loosening off. Hence Audi number three got some blue loctite. If you don't over-do it, it shouldn't be a problem pulling it out later.
As such, I claim no responsibility if my BFS (big-f'n-screwdriver) technique damages your cam gear...but if it does, I have a spare I can send you :P
HTH,
-Dave
Now, on Audi number two this worked like a charm. On Audi number three it spun the entire engine assembly...so I had to reset TDC.
I then grabbed the ever important "SYVAGST-T" (Screw you VAG special tools-tool). A big long pry-bar.
I was able to slide it through a hole in the cam-gear, wedge it against either the head or valve-cover and pop the cam bolt no problem.
As for loctite, Bentley doesn't specifically say you should use it. It just says 59 ft lbs on the torque setting.
Audi number one got no loctite, audi number two got a small amount of blue loctite...like a very tiny amount. Just for 'insurance'.
The crank bolt, however, DOES require loctite...red loctite at that.
There have been some reports recently about the 20v cam gears stripping at the woodruff key slot. There is specualtion that this is caused by the cam bolt loosening off. Hence Audi number three got some blue loctite. If you don't over-do it, it shouldn't be a problem pulling it out later.
As such, I claim no responsibility if my BFS (big-f'n-screwdriver) technique damages your cam gear...but if it does, I have a spare I can send you :P
HTH,
-Dave
#3
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/6607/058.jpg"></center><p>Remove valve cover, use large Cresent wrench on cam lobe, covered with rag.
It works, as I've used this method for years, on many a VW & Audi motor! ;O)
It works, as I've used this method for years, on many a VW & Audi motor! ;O)
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Audi-less for nearly a week and it is getting old. Two Audi's down and I'm getting desperate!
I had to get the old girl out tonight. If I don't get to work tomorrow, my boss will have my a$$. Dallas tonight is cold and wet and she doesn't want to run very well. 1957 cars were/are a lot more sensitive to weather. We get spoiled with electronic fuel injection and things like Hall Senders... Tuning a carburetor and drying off distributor caps used to be real common. And having a doubletrack chain on the overhead cam sure cuts down on the timing 'belt' changes.
Audi-less for nearly a week and it is getting old. Two Audi's down and I'm getting desperate!
I had to get the old girl out tonight. If I don't get to work tomorrow, my boss will have my a$$. Dallas tonight is cold and wet and she doesn't want to run very well. 1957 cars were/are a lot more sensitive to weather. We get spoiled with electronic fuel injection and things like Hall Senders... Tuning a carburetor and drying off distributor caps used to be real common. And having a doubletrack chain on the overhead cam sure cuts down on the timing 'belt' changes.
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