Mance, or anybody doing a lot of suspensions changes
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,690
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mance, or anybody doing a lot of suspensions changes
When removing the front springs, is it possible to remove just the springs w/o removing the whole strut? After reading all of the threads you posted about your suspension, I was thinking "how does he keep the front end aligned if he is changing springs around a lot?" Maybe it has been more the rears that have been coming off.
I am interested in this because last year I picked up a clamshell spring compressor and there were instructions on how to remove the spring w/o removing the whole strut. Has anyone ever tried this or know of anyone who has done it?
I am interested in this because last year I picked up a clamshell spring compressor and there were instructions on how to remove the spring w/o removing the whole strut. Has anyone ever tried this or know of anyone who has done it?
#4
with stock springs or aftermarket "sport" or lowering springs you "have" to...
remove the entire strut assembly. Once you have replaced with coilovers, depending on spring length chosen you "may" get away from that necessity by only disconnecting sway bar link and upper strut mounts. All depends on free length of springs chosen for the task and/or if you've opted for a helper spring setup which can be an incredible time-saver when swapping springs/rates.
But even changing/removing struts doesnt "absolutely" require re-alignment on a B4Q chassis long as you leave lower balljoints intact/undisturbed and even then you can "scribe" their mounting points on control arms and have a very close to "spec" setting when bolting back together. However when replacing lower balljoints I'll always opt for a re-alignment but little else will send me running to the alignement shop unless something gets weird in the steering wheel or just doesnt quite feel right.
But even changing/removing struts doesnt "absolutely" require re-alignment on a B4Q chassis long as you leave lower balljoints intact/undisturbed and even then you can "scribe" their mounting points on control arms and have a very close to "spec" setting when bolting back together. However when replacing lower balljoints I'll always opt for a re-alignment but little else will send me running to the alignement shop unless something gets weird in the steering wheel or just doesnt quite feel right.
#5
Bingo! I'm comfortable doing my own alignments with in-house tools/gauges
tho admittedly I do sometimes get lost and require the help of a Hunter Laser rack to get me back in my comfort zone.
Trending Topics
#10
with B4Q front McPherson strut you dont affect caster via a spring change as its a fixed angle...
dictated by strut tube which is anchored by control arm, ball joint location below and strut mount at the top. You can affect rear suspension changes that way but not McPherson struts on the B4Q for some reason. Neither camber nor caster is altered dramatically as strut tube angles between hub/strut mount remain constant/fixed regardless of height or lack thereof. Yes, "slight" changes can and do occur but just R&Ring the strut/spring assembly or lowering the car 1"-1.5" does not seem to impart as dramatic change as on some other Audis.
Toe and bump steer can be influenced but only with extreme lowering/raising above/below original ride height by distances in the +2" range.
None of this is to say things dont change but they change very very mildly. On the order of same as pushing down on a front fender will change the cars original alignment specs.
Now the UrS4/6 is a whole 'nother story altogether as height changes dramatically affect camber in the front and it too is a McPherson strut design but all similarities to the B4Q front start and end there.
But if people are more comfy having the B4Q's re-aligned or even checked by a competent shop after a spring change or just replacing their strut mounts then by all means they should have it checked. I've just had mine off so many times developing the solid mounts I'm comfortable with R&Ring them then driving knowing everything is still as it was prior to the R&R.
Toe and bump steer can be influenced but only with extreme lowering/raising above/below original ride height by distances in the +2" range.
None of this is to say things dont change but they change very very mildly. On the order of same as pushing down on a front fender will change the cars original alignment specs.
Now the UrS4/6 is a whole 'nother story altogether as height changes dramatically affect camber in the front and it too is a McPherson strut design but all similarities to the B4Q front start and end there.
But if people are more comfy having the B4Q's re-aligned or even checked by a competent shop after a spring change or just replacing their strut mounts then by all means they should have it checked. I've just had mine off so many times developing the solid mounts I'm comfortable with R&Ring them then driving knowing everything is still as it was prior to the R&R.