Mance Mount installation procedure...
04-03-2005, 06:55 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Mance Mount installation procedure...
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/strutmount.jpg"></center><p>
Thought I'd post this where its easily searchable now and in the future.
Bear in mind due to the ultra-close tolerance of these mounts there is no undue force involved in any aspect of their installation. If you're thinking of grinding, hammering, putting some part in a vice or hydraulic pressing ANY part of this project you're doing something wrong! STOP, take a breather and re-think the task. Everything goes together by hand except for final tightening of the bolts/nuts.
In this pic use only the "green check" items with the solid mount. Gold anodized washer in center of top row is optional, use it or dont... entirely your call. With it you gain approx .100" more ride height and nothing more.
Other than than items pictured in top row nothing is re-used from the stock mounts.
FRONT SOLID MOUNT INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Remove front struts.
2. Align drill guide in strut towers tops with the bolt pattern how you want it. You can have your 4 bolt pattern in any 360 degree rotation. Make sure centering ring is fully seated within strut tower bore. Tap softly with a hammer if necessary as its a very tight, precision fit on some cars as some strut towers thru-holes are a few thousandths tighter than others. Push bolt thru and thread into cross-bar while holding from underneath. Tighten sufficiently so it doesnt move and is firmly seated within strut tower.
3. Place a drop of engine oil on the inside walls of each hole in the drill guide and on the strut tower top beneath each hole in the guide. If you dont have oil nearby grab the dipstick and use some from its tip. This will help prevent the guide holes from enlarging during drilling and allow you to drill thru the strut tower metal easier with less heat and strain on the bit and drill. Drill all four holes and remove drill guide from strut tower. Wipe any excess oil and metal chips off drill guide and strut towers.
4. De-burr drilled holes from underside where drill punched thru. Best accomplished with a 3/8" or larger drill bit lightly spun with point centered in hole from underneath. Do NOT apply pressure or drill thru strut towers with this drill!! Just a quick de-burring touch-up at each hole to remove sharp edges/burrs.
5. Repeat process at opposite side of car.
6. Compress spring and remove stock rubber mount from strut assembly. NO PART OF THE STOCK MOUNT IS RE-USED!! Remove gold anodized washer found below upper spring perch at this time if desired.
7. Install new solid mount on top of upper spring perch on "compressed" spring. Hand tighten 24mm sleeved nut on to threaded strut inside spherical bearing. Make sure to have "at least" 4-5 threads engaged or more if you can. Compress spring more if necessary. Ideally there should only be 2-4 unused threads showing from top of 24mm strut nut when fully screwed down. Once 24mm sleeved nut is threaded on release spring compressor.
8. Replace strut into car. Align 4 holes you drilled with the drill guide to the threaded holes in the new strut mounts. Thread all 4 stainless mount bolts thru strut towers and into solid mount. Make sure center shoulder is centered in hole at top of strut tower. Its a very tight, precision fit. Use no LocTite at this time!
9. Re-install and tighten all bolts removed with regard to hub/knuckle/tie rod and sway bar that were removed during strut removal. Once done lower car until solid mount is firmly seated within strut tower underside by weight of car. Firmly tighten all nuts and fasteners.
10. Drive car for 2-3 miles and return to work space. This will settle-in all of the components.
11. Remove all stainless fasteners and 24mm sleeved nut with car resting on solid mounts. Nothing will fly apart as cars weight will hold everything in place. Do not turn wheels while no retaining bolts are holding mounts or you risk mis-aligning the mounts holes with holes you drilled in strut towers!!
11. Now apply LocTite to all stainless allen cap bolts and 24mm sleeved nut. Tighten firmly but DO NOT over tighten!! 24mm sleeved nut is best tightened with a box-end wrench so that a 6mm allen wrench can keep the hex-ended strut rod from turning.
NOTE* Mance Mount strut mounts' spherical bearings are sealed and lubricated for life. No additional maintenance or lubrication is EVER required or needed. Use no oil/grease on them as it is a dirt magnet!
REAR SOLID STRUT MOUNT INSTALLATION
1. Everything is as above with the exception of drill guide can be used for drilling strut towers from top if you have sufficient clearance. Or you can use it from below. Some rear installations are easier to drill from below. Rear installation kits come with a short and long drill bit to facilitate installation from above or below.
Thought I'd post this where its easily searchable now and in the future.
Bear in mind due to the ultra-close tolerance of these mounts there is no undue force involved in any aspect of their installation. If you're thinking of grinding, hammering, putting some part in a vice or hydraulic pressing ANY part of this project you're doing something wrong! STOP, take a breather and re-think the task. Everything goes together by hand except for final tightening of the bolts/nuts.
In this pic use only the "green check" items with the solid mount. Gold anodized washer in center of top row is optional, use it or dont... entirely your call. With it you gain approx .100" more ride height and nothing more.
Other than than items pictured in top row nothing is re-used from the stock mounts.
FRONT SOLID MOUNT INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Remove front struts.
2. Align drill guide in strut towers tops with the bolt pattern how you want it. You can have your 4 bolt pattern in any 360 degree rotation. Make sure centering ring is fully seated within strut tower bore. Tap softly with a hammer if necessary as its a very tight, precision fit on some cars as some strut towers thru-holes are a few thousandths tighter than others. Push bolt thru and thread into cross-bar while holding from underneath. Tighten sufficiently so it doesnt move and is firmly seated within strut tower.
3. Place a drop of engine oil on the inside walls of each hole in the drill guide and on the strut tower top beneath each hole in the guide. If you dont have oil nearby grab the dipstick and use some from its tip. This will help prevent the guide holes from enlarging during drilling and allow you to drill thru the strut tower metal easier with less heat and strain on the bit and drill. Drill all four holes and remove drill guide from strut tower. Wipe any excess oil and metal chips off drill guide and strut towers.
4. De-burr drilled holes from underside where drill punched thru. Best accomplished with a 3/8" or larger drill bit lightly spun with point centered in hole from underneath. Do NOT apply pressure or drill thru strut towers with this drill!! Just a quick de-burring touch-up at each hole to remove sharp edges/burrs.
5. Repeat process at opposite side of car.
6. Compress spring and remove stock rubber mount from strut assembly. NO PART OF THE STOCK MOUNT IS RE-USED!! Remove gold anodized washer found below upper spring perch at this time if desired.
7. Install new solid mount on top of upper spring perch on "compressed" spring. Hand tighten 24mm sleeved nut on to threaded strut inside spherical bearing. Make sure to have "at least" 4-5 threads engaged or more if you can. Compress spring more if necessary. Ideally there should only be 2-4 unused threads showing from top of 24mm strut nut when fully screwed down. Once 24mm sleeved nut is threaded on release spring compressor.
8. Replace strut into car. Align 4 holes you drilled with the drill guide to the threaded holes in the new strut mounts. Thread all 4 stainless mount bolts thru strut towers and into solid mount. Make sure center shoulder is centered in hole at top of strut tower. Its a very tight, precision fit. Use no LocTite at this time!
9. Re-install and tighten all bolts removed with regard to hub/knuckle/tie rod and sway bar that were removed during strut removal. Once done lower car until solid mount is firmly seated within strut tower underside by weight of car. Firmly tighten all nuts and fasteners.
10. Drive car for 2-3 miles and return to work space. This will settle-in all of the components.
11. Remove all stainless fasteners and 24mm sleeved nut with car resting on solid mounts. Nothing will fly apart as cars weight will hold everything in place. Do not turn wheels while no retaining bolts are holding mounts or you risk mis-aligning the mounts holes with holes you drilled in strut towers!!
11. Now apply LocTite to all stainless allen cap bolts and 24mm sleeved nut. Tighten firmly but DO NOT over tighten!! 24mm sleeved nut is best tightened with a box-end wrench so that a 6mm allen wrench can keep the hex-ended strut rod from turning.
NOTE* Mance Mount strut mounts' spherical bearings are sealed and lubricated for life. No additional maintenance or lubrication is EVER required or needed. Use no oil/grease on them as it is a dirt magnet!
REAR SOLID STRUT MOUNT INSTALLATION
1. Everything is as above with the exception of drill guide can be used for drilling strut towers from top if you have sufficient clearance. Or you can use it from below. Some rear installations are easier to drill from below. Rear installation kits come with a short and long drill bit to facilitate installation from above or below.
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04-03-2005, 09:43 AM
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Indeed. I was happy with just "solid mounts" but people insist on "me-mounts" so I live with it...
probably does help with defining mine vs. the British units but none-the-less weird for me to call mine by my name. Probably not weird at all for everyone else.
