CvTech

NO MORE LAZINESS. I left the bar early last night to do this.

Ok so this is what the rear looks like once its off the car from the top and the spring is compressed. THis is the new shock, not old Boge:
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1300.jpg">

This is how you start to take it apart:
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1303.jpg">

So once the top nut is off the big washer and rubber stop are free to move:
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1304.jpg">

This then exposes the shock, its threads and the metal sleeve that I took from the Boge to act as a spacer, or whatever. More on this:
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1305.jpg">

So the shock housing is free to come off, this reveals even further the sleeve/spacer along with the cup and a piece of rubber, which I think goes onto of the cup as the cup sits in shock housing and without it onto top will make a metal to metal slap/pound noise when the shock and spring are compressed.
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1306.jpg">

More on this sleeve/spacer thing. I pulled this from the stock rear Boge thinking that is served some spacing purpose or that when the top nut is compressed onto this and everything else this is what holds it together with some room in between for rubber stops, etc.
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1308.jpg">

I think I am getting the noise because this rubber thing should be on top of the cup:
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1309.jpg">

Here's a better look at the sleeve/spacer pulled from the Boge now installed on the Bilstein. That sleeve in my hand goes over the shock's "dead space" to creat a stoping point/pressure point for when it is mounted.
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1311.jpg">

What the top of the shock looks like naked. That little metal ring hold the cup and the sleeve goes on top of the cup where then a peice of rubber goes over that and then the shock housing goes over that
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1312.jpg">
more on what I described above
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1313.jpg">

And with a little imagination, is this how its suppose to look? Imagine the shock housing in that dead space between the two rubber stops.
<img src="http://12vaudi.com/pictures/DSCF1314.jpg">

Now what I still knwo is that with that spacer or even with out it there is still metal exposed to the shock housing that could knock and make noise. Weird design if you ask me.

Comments! Give em to me!

Just-Emre

Where did you get the Voghtlands?

CvTech

no, from CrazyCab

Just-Emre

Ah, you got da hook up?

CvTech

yip!

CvTech

MikTip, Mance. Any FWD people who put some Bilsteins on their cars?

Luxus Panzer

Buler...anyone... (ben stein voice)

CvTech

wow!

CvTech

please tell me. I am dying to finish this thing!

CrazyCab

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/76266/rear.jpg"></center><p>I'm pretty sure our setups aren't the same, the Cab shares the B3 rear suspension and you have a B4 rear suspension setup.

But anyways I hope this helps, I'd probably wait for Miktip to phone in as he would probably know best.


Rear suspension strut, repairing
1 - Self-locking nut
Always replace
Removing and installing Fig. 1
Tighten with torque wrench Fig. 2
25 Nm (18 ft lb)
2 - Stop plate
3 - Rubber bushing
Install with dry lubricant such as talcum powder
4 - Spacer
Install on shock absorber piston rod
5 - Adapter
Right- and left-side adapters are different
Axis -B- must be aligned so it is perpendicular (90 3) to axis -A- on shock absorber - 13 -
6 - Protective cap
Install on adapter




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7 - Damping ring
Install with dry lubricant such as talcum powder
Install on coil spring so that stop is aligned with end of spring
8 - Coil spring
Applications see Parts catalog
Refer to vehicle data plate for suspension version
Imprint on data plate:
1BA = Standard version
1BE = Sport version
Installing:
Install on shock absorber and turn so end of coil spring is aligned with stop on lower spring seat
Color code points toward spring seat
Left side: strut is correctly installed when lower end of spring faces front of vehicle
Right side: strut is correctly installed when lower end of spring faces rear of vehicle
9 - Rubber bushing
Install with dry lubricant such as talcum powder




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10 - Housing
Install on shock absorber piston rod
11 - Ring
Install on shock absorber piston rod
12 - Bump stop
Different version depending on suspension version
Imprint on data plate:
1BA = Standard version
1BE = Sport version
13 - Shock absorber
Applications see Parts catalog
Refer to vehicle data plate for suspension version
Imprint on data plate:
1BA = Standard version
1BE = Sport version
Sport suspension may be equipped with conventional or gas-charged shock absorbers
Servicing:
Can be replaced individually
Replacement supplied with lower spring seat pressed on
Axis -A- must be aligned so it is perpendicular (90 3) to axis -B- on adapter - 5 -




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Checking conventional shock absorbers (removed):
- Hold upright and extend and compress by hand-must move smoothly over entire stroke
Long storage may require some "pumping up" first
Defective struts also make banging noises while driving
With proper function, small traces of oil alone are not a reason for replacement
Severe oil loss affects rebound and compression damping
Checking gas-charged shock absorbers (removed):
- Compress by hand-must move smoothly through entire stroke
- Release-gas pressure must return piston rod to initial position if there is sufficient gas pressure
If there is no significant oil leakage, it will function like a conventional shock absorber and does not necessarily have to be replaced