Ok, we can finally put most of this tranny conversion stuff to bed...
#32
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thats my fav a good IPA.. ever get over to arvada? i have a friend who runs a pizza-live music venue they have some good IPA's its called the D'NOTE its on Grandview
#35
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I'll make you a 1" taller SSK unit in my next batch. Of course, we all know how slow I am so it might be a bit(picking up your brake parts at the plater today woohoo!!) plus I still have quite a few in stock so I don't need to do a production run just yet.
Lookin good - I love that box! As usual, a very clean install - what we've come to expect from you!
Lookin good - I love that box! As usual, a very clean install - what we've come to expect from you!
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#37
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016 wont allow direct 5th-to-reverse down-shifts anyway and 3rd-to-reverse is nearly as impossible except to valets whom I never give the keys to anyway.
Thanks for the heads-up on the brake kit as its DESPERATELY needed ASAP but I was determined not to bring it up again. I doubt it'll see the sun rise & set on it even once after it arrives before its installed.
Thanks for the heads-up on the brake kit as its DESPERATELY needed ASAP but I was determined not to bring it up again. I doubt it'll see the sun rise & set on it even once after it arrives before its installed.
#38
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with a split-ring bushing. The more simple/elegant solution would be to make another, taller one-piece sans slot from T-304 SS. I dont need no stinkin' push-down reverse lock-out. Those are for morons/idots who should be driving slush-boxes. ;-)
#39
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First off nice work! Not sure if you know this or not but I've done this swap too in my 90TQ.
I've had that A4 piece in my hands at least a 100 times and never looked at it close enough to make the connection. I admit I haven't followed the gear box swap posts, but I have seen the propshaft posts. I'm in need of a prop shaft (actually two since I'm doing the same swap in my coupe) how much does it run to build it. Secondly were the custom tranny mounts made for clearing the shifter box?
Thanks in advance
I've had that A4 piece in my hands at least a 100 times and never looked at it close enough to make the connection. I admit I haven't followed the gear box swap posts, but I have seen the propshaft posts. I'm in need of a prop shaft (actually two since I'm doing the same swap in my coupe) how much does it run to build it. Secondly were the custom tranny mounts made for clearing the shifter box?
Thanks in advance
#40
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did all the machine work and purchased my own cromoly tubing. I cut the splined ends off an old drive shaft, turned their ends down on the lathe to be a .007" interference press fit into the cromoly tube. I also turned down the CV housing centers to make them as light as possible.
Drive shaft shop pressed the splined ends in to the tube I provided them then welded & balanced the drive shafts with lightweight CV's attached as a one-piece assembly to less than .001 ounce at 12,000 RPM. Because I controlled setup in my lathe I was able to turn down the splined ends so that when pressed into the cromoly tube less than .001" run-out was indicated from one end of the 43" lightweight drive shaft to the other. No commercial machine shop would've taken the time to set up their machines to hold tolerances that tight on a "one-off" part from a walk-in customer.
So to answer your question I'd have to say it costs whatever you can find the cromoly tubing for, have drive-shaft ends machined to a .007" or so interference fit into the tube. Plus whatever a local drive shaft shop charges to press the ends on, weld & balance. Then there's the cost of new CV's and/or if you want them lightened/balanced as well. My total out-of-pocket was $240 for 2 CVs at $70 each and drive shaft shop charges of $100 for pressing, welding & balancing.
The custom mounts were done for several reasons; first, stock mounts would not line up with sub-frame mounting locations with either B4Q/4kQ mounting arms on the 016 transmission to the B4Q sub frame mounts. Secondly I wanted to lower my transmission and engine a half inch for lower/better COG on a street/road course car.
Drive shaft shop pressed the splined ends in to the tube I provided them then welded & balanced the drive shafts with lightweight CV's attached as a one-piece assembly to less than .001 ounce at 12,000 RPM. Because I controlled setup in my lathe I was able to turn down the splined ends so that when pressed into the cromoly tube less than .001" run-out was indicated from one end of the 43" lightweight drive shaft to the other. No commercial machine shop would've taken the time to set up their machines to hold tolerances that tight on a "one-off" part from a walk-in customer.
So to answer your question I'd have to say it costs whatever you can find the cromoly tubing for, have drive-shaft ends machined to a .007" or so interference fit into the tube. Plus whatever a local drive shaft shop charges to press the ends on, weld & balance. Then there's the cost of new CV's and/or if you want them lightened/balanced as well. My total out-of-pocket was $240 for 2 CVs at $70 each and drive shaft shop charges of $100 for pressing, welding & balancing.
The custom mounts were done for several reasons; first, stock mounts would not line up with sub-frame mounting locations with either B4Q/4kQ mounting arms on the 016 transmission to the B4Q sub frame mounts. Secondly I wanted to lower my transmission and engine a half inch for lower/better COG on a street/road course car.