Petrol's $1.30 per litre, what can I do. Well >>>
09-25-2005, 06:08 PM
#1
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Petrol's $1.30 per litre, what can I do. Well >>>
I've been playing around with options to save petrol. The first thing I did was get a new petrol cap. The original Audi cap always felt a bit loose and I suspected that I was losing a bit of fuel to evaporation, especially during a hot Aussie summer......
This next one's probably a bit marginal from a legal perspective, but I got myself a fuel/air gauge (see pic below) and started playing around with the MAF adjustment screw. The Bentley details how to get the CO reading just right to minimise the HC, NOx & CO emissions to comply with the various. Well, I've leaned it out a bit from that optimum and so now My HC & CO readings are down, but the NOx is a bit high. The practical upshot of which is that I'm now getting an easy 500-550km from a tank where as before it was around 400-450km.
Now I know that the combustion temps are now a bit higher than they were, but at general cruise the O2 sensor is doing it's Lamda loop thing to keep it under control and judging by the Air/Fuel gauge at WOT the mixture is still on the rich side ideal, it's just not as rich. Also the good ol' I5 20V can easily handle 300+hp in turbo applications, so I figure a little extra temp from leaner running, shouldn't hurt.
Anyway, there's probably a number of very good reasons not to do this, but at the moment, things are running fine and here in Australia, we don't have annual emissions checks, so that shouldn't catch me out ......
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/duckmcf/DSC01694.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
This next one's probably a bit marginal from a legal perspective, but I got myself a fuel/air gauge (see pic below) and started playing around with the MAF adjustment screw. The Bentley details how to get the CO reading just right to minimise the HC, NOx & CO emissions to comply with the various. Well, I've leaned it out a bit from that optimum and so now My HC & CO readings are down, but the NOx is a bit high. The practical upshot of which is that I'm now getting an easy 500-550km from a tank where as before it was around 400-450km.
Now I know that the combustion temps are now a bit higher than they were, but at general cruise the O2 sensor is doing it's Lamda loop thing to keep it under control and judging by the Air/Fuel gauge at WOT the mixture is still on the rich side ideal, it's just not as rich. Also the good ol' I5 20V can easily handle 300+hp in turbo applications, so I figure a little extra temp from leaner running, shouldn't hurt.
Anyway, there's probably a number of very good reasons not to do this, but at the moment, things are running fine and here in Australia, we don't have annual emissions checks, so that shouldn't catch me out ......
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/duckmcf/DSC01694.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
09-25-2005, 09:16 PM
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We have emissions standards similar to the US, we just don't have the yearly tests.
By the way, nothing that comes out of a car's exhaust pipe can damage Ozone. It's CFC's like Freon (R12) that destroys ozone.
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09-25-2005, 09:37 PM
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Reminds me of 2 buddies of mine.
One has an 90, one had an RX-7 that blew oil smoke out like crazy. One particular day when the RX-7 was blowing a bigger-than-normal blue cloud, the guy with the 90 looks at the RX-7 guy and just says 'Dude, we should name a hole in the ozone layer after your car'.
09-25-2005, 10:00 PM
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That'd be funny except that exhaust emissions have NO impact on the Ozone layer...
CFC's like Freon, R12 etc. destroy ozone.
Exhaust emissions NOx & HC (mostly NOx) cause smog.
Two very different things....
Exhaust emissions NOx & HC (mostly NOx) cause smog.
Two very different things....
