questions about 7a throttle body
#1
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i was talking to my local audi mechanic guy dude and he was chill as hell and said hey, have you tried taking the restriction thing out of the big intake port on your throttle body flapper?? and i was like nah bro, haven't even thought of it. he said to take the large diameter intake valve out of a volkswagen but he didn't specify which volkswagen. and here's where my question start, is this even a good idea to squeeze a little more power...or is just jiggerfolly. if it's not a waste of time which vdub would i be taking the intake valve out of??? like an early vr6???
#3
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It will give some info re: modifiying the TB. But I agree with 4Driver4. Look at the big MAF swap first. STFA.<ul><li><a href="http://www.20v-sauger-tuning.de/">http://www.20v-sauger-tuning.de/</a</li></ul>
#4
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Changing the MAF alone provided no gains in dyno testing by 034.
First you've got the air filter box that has the air doing u-turns to get to the MAF.
From the MAF you have a corrugated tube to the TB.
and the TB has several restrictions.
The intake manifold is long for torque and poorly ported.
Of course if you fix all these things, you move the powerband even further towards the high end where it already runs pretty well.
So back to the question, yeah do it, it's the first step.
First you've got the air filter box that has the air doing u-turns to get to the MAF.
From the MAF you have a corrugated tube to the TB.
and the TB has several restrictions.
The intake manifold is long for torque and poorly ported.
Of course if you fix all these things, you move the powerband even further towards the high end where it already runs pretty well.
So back to the question, yeah do it, it's the first step.
#5
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I have a butterfly from a 12v on in place of the current one. It's a pain to install it correctly as the valve wants to close on you when you're putting it on. The front crossmember isn't right on my car so it has a lot of engine movement to begin with (going to fix that). This mod makes that even worse:-( The power is less smooth on and off throttle. There's a reason it's there. The 20vt's have this as well on their TB's. I plan to leave that alone on my AAN and soon to be turbo'd 90.
#6
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<center><img src="http://www.20v-sauger-tuning.de/drosselbearbeitung.jpg"></center><p>is the wedge on the smaller plate then? Does anyone know the reason why? I have an extra T.B that I can modify and test.
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#9
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It may have been to further reduce throttle and slow throttle sensitivity (beyond what the dual butterfly arrangement nets, vice a single larger butterfly) at it's first opening, I don't know.
IMO, it is the opposite of what you see done on the 12v "S" T/B's, where the factory-made back-side primary-bore throttle-body relief-cut appears as though it would provide a <i>hastening</i> of throttle opening (vice "non-S" T/B's simple bore-hole) in the early stages from closed.
I removed the wedge on my 20v, epoxied the holes shut and liked the result.
IMO, it is the opposite of what you see done on the 12v "S" T/B's, where the factory-made back-side primary-bore throttle-body relief-cut appears as though it would provide a <i>hastening</i> of throttle opening (vice "non-S" T/B's simple bore-hole) in the early stages from closed.
I removed the wedge on my 20v, epoxied the holes shut and liked the result.
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Havepitty in W.Van
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01-23-2004 09:04 PM