Replaced the Thermostat tonight, still overheating... (Instructions inside...)
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Replaced the Thermostat tonight, still overheating... (Instructions inside...)
So I replaced my thermostat tonight, but the car is still overheating...
I was able to do it without taking off the timing belt... Here's what I did...
-Disconnect battery
-Remove electric fans
-Drain coolant (What was left of it from overheating...)
-Remove accessory belt
-Remove accessory belt tensioner
-Remove plastic timing covers (I marked the teeth just in case I did end up taking the timing belt off)
-Clamp and undo the radiator hoses that go into passenger side of engine (i.e. the thermostat housing) (Note: On the 93 engine there is one, on the 95 there are two.)
-Find and take off the 2 10mm bolts holding this housing in place.
-Wiggle the housing so its loose and work on sliding it out towards the passenger fender (If for whatever reason you can't get it to fit between the engine and the timing belt, loosen the timing belt tensioner just enough to get some play room, but don't remove the belt)
-Once the housing is out, take out the old thermostat and seal (Note the orientation and have the notch with the metal bearing on top)
-Clean thermostat area on engine block and t-stat housing.
-Put new thermostat in place and put the housing over it with the o-ring between the thermostat and housing.
-Put 10mm bolts back on.
-Retension timing belt if you took it off before.
-Reattach coolant hoses.
-Put the timing belt covers back on
-Put the accessory belt tensioner back on.
-Put the accessory belt back on.
-Put the electric fans back on and hook them up again.
-Reconnect the battery.
-Fill coolant.
-Test car.
-Bleed air out via 2 bleeder valves and expansion tank.
So I did all that, but the coolant temp still goes up to between the 2 dots on the gauge (I assume 200F and 212F or so.)
So what else could it be...
-Waterpump has frozen so there isn't enough circulation?
-Some foreign matter somewhere which blocked a passageway?
-I doubt it's the coolant temp sensor, since the gauge reads correctly...
Any help?
Roger
I was able to do it without taking off the timing belt... Here's what I did...
-Disconnect battery
-Remove electric fans
-Drain coolant (What was left of it from overheating...)
-Remove accessory belt
-Remove accessory belt tensioner
-Remove plastic timing covers (I marked the teeth just in case I did end up taking the timing belt off)
-Clamp and undo the radiator hoses that go into passenger side of engine (i.e. the thermostat housing) (Note: On the 93 engine there is one, on the 95 there are two.)
-Find and take off the 2 10mm bolts holding this housing in place.
-Wiggle the housing so its loose and work on sliding it out towards the passenger fender (If for whatever reason you can't get it to fit between the engine and the timing belt, loosen the timing belt tensioner just enough to get some play room, but don't remove the belt)
-Once the housing is out, take out the old thermostat and seal (Note the orientation and have the notch with the metal bearing on top)
-Clean thermostat area on engine block and t-stat housing.
-Put new thermostat in place and put the housing over it with the o-ring between the thermostat and housing.
-Put 10mm bolts back on.
-Retension timing belt if you took it off before.
-Reattach coolant hoses.
-Put the timing belt covers back on
-Put the accessory belt tensioner back on.
-Put the accessory belt back on.
-Put the electric fans back on and hook them up again.
-Reconnect the battery.
-Fill coolant.
-Test car.
-Bleed air out via 2 bleeder valves and expansion tank.
So I did all that, but the coolant temp still goes up to between the 2 dots on the gauge (I assume 200F and 212F or so.)
So what else could it be...
-Waterpump has frozen so there isn't enough circulation?
-Some foreign matter somewhere which blocked a passageway?
-I doubt it's the coolant temp sensor, since the gauge reads correctly...
Any help?
Roger
#4
What kinda car ya driving Rog?
If the temp sensor is a multi-function unit, it most likely controls the radiator fans as well; just cause the readout is ok might not mean the radiator switch is working. IIRC, the fan should kick on at about half way up the gauge (at the first dot?). Anyhow, get back to us and we'll figure it out! Good luck with it.
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