TwentyValveB5+S4

Finished my strut mounts today, MUCH better, although I now know for a fact that my front shocks are squishier than Star Jones' *** cheeks, so there's still some clunking, but not too much. I think my sway bar bracket's not as tight as it should be after removing that bad bolt.
My steering's not also so tight anymore, kinda squishy too. Pretty sure my end links are toast, but I'm not sure if I busted a tie rod end or a ball joint during my strut removal.
Anyhow, I've had my check engine light come on twice now, both after hard acceleration up an incline. After the first one, I noticed my oil was a little low, so I did a whole oil change a few days ago, including the replacement of my possibly-faulty lower oil pan gasket. I checked for leaks today, and it's tight now. The second one happened just now, after testing out my fixed suspension.
I'm thinking it has something to do with my exhaust leak -- there's some exhaust escaping from the clamp towards the rear, right in front of the two mid-mufflers, and there's a HUGE crack in the pipe around the hangar right in front of the pass. side cat, right where that weld is. Could these set it off just a little bit? Are there sensors behind there that could read my exhaust as too lean?
How do I get the codes? I have the little wire thingy, but no VAG stuff.

absolutcq20v

Since you do have the CEL bulb installed, you can probably just jump two lines on the diagnostic ports. Get a jumper wire handy to jump B1 and A1, as seen here:
<img src="http://20v.org/1115.jpg">
First, turn on the ignition (don't start car), connect jumper for about 4 seconds, then disconnect jumper...the codes will start to blink via the CEL.<ul><li><a href="http://20v.org/fault.htm">DTCs from 20v.org</a></li></ul>

nothing

<ul><li><a href="http://12v.org/maintenance/dtc.php">http://12v.org/maintenance/dtc.php</a</li></ul>

absolutcq20v

Same method, different codes...thanks for the flogging.