timing belt: turned the crankshaft backwards 4 teeth by accident
09-13-2008, 09:02 PM
#1
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timing belt: turned the crankshaft backwards 4 teeth by accident
w/ old belt on and nothing removed. backwards = counter-clockwise
What are the consequences?
What are the consequences?
09-14-2008, 06:55 AM
#3
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That's what I figured. In any event it was a mistake...
I bent down, and the rather large breaker bar I had on the crank was horizontal towards the passenger side so that when my right knee hit it, it moved.
I will be more careful
I will be more careful
09-14-2008, 10:48 AM
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Something similar happened to me when I was installing a new dizzy.
Getting it all back in time and went backwards a little.
Which reminds me I need to do a timing belt/water pump/etc. on this car soon.
Did you ever flush that old coolant out? That stuff was some nasty stuff...
Which reminds me I need to do a timing belt/water pump/etc. on this car soon.
Did you ever flush that old coolant out? That stuff was some nasty stuff...
09-14-2008, 01:25 PM
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Yeah I just flushed it yesterday
pretty awful looking. Also doesn't appear as though the tbelt has ever been done. One of those allan head studs broke off in the block and I'm not sure how to get it out. Vice grips don't seem to be of any use.
I'm at the point now where I need to remove the belt. I'm a little hesitant to remove the crank bolt without the proper tool as there seems to be a decent amount of slop before the transmision prevents everything from moving. Even when it hits the point of resistance, the belt seems to flex substantially under the pressure of the breaker bar.
I'm at the point now where I need to remove the belt. I'm a little hesitant to remove the crank bolt without the proper tool as there seems to be a decent amount of slop before the transmision prevents everything from moving. Even when it hits the point of resistance, the belt seems to flex substantially under the pressure of the breaker bar.
09-17-2008, 06:08 AM
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Need the crank lock tool?
Make your own... somewhere on here someone shows the chunk of steel the cut/ground to make a tool...
not that hard. Piece of appropriately sized pipe to fit into the counterbore in the crank pulley. Only need 3" length of it. Then cut a notch in it to fit around the 'bump' in the crank pulley for the locking tool. When it all fits together properly (and you can get the socket down the inside of the pipe to reach the crank bolt), weld that pipe onto a length of angle-steel (or whatever you have on hand).
Orientation is that important. Know where you need the engine to line up to, make all your marks, put on the crank lock tool (rotate crank if necessary), loosen bolt, return crank to proper orientation, remove everything, replace belt, reinstall crank pulley, hand-tighten crank bolt, make sure everything lines up how it should... then rotate the crank to line up your tool so you can tighten it all up.
Dad made one for me a couple years back. I'd lend it to you... but it's at the farm in Norwood... I'm living in Sudbury... and the piece of angle-steel it's welded to is 5ft long... pointless to ship it.
not that hard. Piece of appropriately sized pipe to fit into the counterbore in the crank pulley. Only need 3" length of it. Then cut a notch in it to fit around the 'bump' in the crank pulley for the locking tool. When it all fits together properly (and you can get the socket down the inside of the pipe to reach the crank bolt), weld that pipe onto a length of angle-steel (or whatever you have on hand).
Orientation is that important. Know where you need the engine to line up to, make all your marks, put on the crank lock tool (rotate crank if necessary), loosen bolt, return crank to proper orientation, remove everything, replace belt, reinstall crank pulley, hand-tighten crank bolt, make sure everything lines up how it should... then rotate the crank to line up your tool so you can tighten it all up.
Dad made one for me a couple years back. I'd lend it to you... but it's at the farm in Norwood... I'm living in Sudbury... and the piece of angle-steel it's welded to is 5ft long... pointless to ship it.
09-17-2008, 08:47 AM
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This is easier.
<img src="http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/images/crank-lock1.jpg">
<img src="http://www.audifans.com/w/images/Prybar.jpg">
You can get them for $10 at sears, but I already had one.
<img src="http://www.audifans.com/w/images/Prybar.jpg">
You can get them for $10 at sears, but I already had one.
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