andrew1

Hey there!

I bought myself an audi 80 2,8 wich had a problem with the engine. It was lacking power,basicly up to 2500rpm it revs quite fine and after that it just gets even more dizzier. But even on the lower rpm's it's still not good as it supposed to be.
I checked the trouble codes and these are what I got:
After checking the MAF and deleting the codes none of them existed so I started looking for vacuum leaks. I found some but after fixing them nothing changed, then I noticed that the intake flaps doesen't move. If i move them by hand, they're moveing well but the vacuum is not doing anything. Next on I starteg going by the line and found a solenoid valve on the air filter box, wich should lead the vacuum to the intake flaps. The solenoid klicks, if I lead the power on to it and changes the way air is moved so it should work.
But my main concern is that how much vacuum is supposed to come from the vacuum reservoir, I connected the reservoir directly to the intake flap line but they still didn't move... So is the reservoir leaking or why isn't there enogh vacuum? Or these thing are fine but there are other issues? I'm quite new on the V6 so I could need some help.
Andrew

Oh, therese a picture of the solenoid, and how the cables run:

The dark blue one, further away goes to the intake flaps and the yellow one comes from the vacuum reservoir.
I hope I made my problem as clear as possible but don't hesitate to ask some more questions.

grillage

By intake flaps do you mean inside the intake manifold? They are actuated at 4100 rpm.

andrew1

Thats right. So even if the flaps in the manifold doesent move I should still be able to to run just fine under 4000rpm?

grillage

You should indeed

andrew1

*Car, didn't notice the grammar mistake.

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

check if you cane move the flaps manually, get a vac pump and start checking for other leaks, but my suggestions would be, go to NAPA, get some silicone vac lines and just replace the whole dorn vac system

hubturn

Check the vacuum diagram to make sure that the lines are connected properly. They started out color coded but by now may have been replaced and might not be going where they are suppossed to go. Also, check any in-line one way valves (the plastic things with an arrow on them) to make sure the insides are not rotted out and therefore doing nothing. Also, listen for any hiss signifying a leak. Now my favorite comment. Get some MAF cleaner and clean the MAF. A dirty MAF will throw the oxygen sensor codes you are getting which could cause the ECU to be confused about whether it should be in the open or closed loop.