Vibration Damper

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Old 11-13-2006, 07:24 AM
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Default Vibration Damper

On the vibration damper there is obviously a timing mark which I'm assuming lines up with the arrow on the block. The only reference bently has to this mark is when locking the crank. However, when putting the damper back on, the dot does not line up exactly with the arrow. when i twist the pulley the threads put the dot a little above or a little below. is this normal, any suggestions? Thanks PS. The crank is already locked at tdc
Old 11-13-2006, 08:25 AM
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Default Did you remove the crank sprocket?

I'd pull that off and see if the key is partially sheared.
Old 11-13-2006, 08:49 AM
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all these questions are about a 20valve, correct?
Old 11-13-2006, 09:19 AM
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Default That mark is off on every damper I've ever seen

Don't use it, stick to the FW and cam marks for setting timing.
Old 11-13-2006, 09:48 AM
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I assumed it was a 12v.
Old 11-13-2006, 11:59 AM
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2nd...rubber insulator wears off and pulley's outer 'ring' slips and throws off your markings.
Old 11-13-2006, 12:34 PM
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clarification would help
Old 11-14-2006, 04:31 AM
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Default Only cast iron dampers suffer that possibility. The stamped steel ones are 1-piece....

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/lwhd7.jpg"></center><p>
and the only "pressed-in" piece is the heavy inertial weight that is isolated by a thick, dense rubber sandwich. If the inertial damping ring slips or spins the timing mark cant move as long as the flange doesnt slip on the crank.

In this pic you can see everything is one-piece except the heavy inertial ring which I've CNC'd for weight savings. The timing mark is in the one-piece assembly that bolts to the crank. No matter how much the inertial ring moves the timing mark remains in EXACTLY the same spot.
Old 11-14-2006, 04:41 AM
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Default There's a myriad of issues that contribute to and aggrivate that fact...

all the components related to indexing are made in several cities across Europe and others on different continents. You have flywheel pins, cast and injection-molded aluminum and plastic markings and slotted crank counter-weights. Then there's dampers and their markings.

And to top it all off even Audi doesnt use those marks on engine assembly. There's only one way to do it "very very" right and thats with a degree wheel and a dial run-out indicator. The same way Audi and every other engine manufacturer and assembly plant on the planet does it. No engine assembly plant on earth would dare use those marks assembling an engine!

Sure the provided marks will get you close... the car "will" run. But ya never know where you really are as it relates to timing.

All this is doubly important on Audi V-engines in the line up with tapered rather than keyed cams that most people dont even realize have adjustable cam timing built-in with no aftermarket parts to buy.
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