aluminumpork

Mmmk... so. My front currently has new:

- Control Arm Bushings
- Ball Joints
- Sway bar link arms
- Boge strut mounts w/ mount savers
- Koni Struts
- Eibach Sport springs

And everything is A LOT better. However, on certain bumps (especially the quick ones that jolt the suspension up quickly), I still get that "something's loose" sound and I hate it. I just want a solid front end

What else could be causing this, all of the above has been replaced within the past year. Sway bar bushings? Tie-rod ends? I don't see those parts as being big noise makers, but I guess I could be wrong.

Any help is greatly appreciated as always.
Thanks.

VAP

Odds-on favorite: Struts not centered/seated & tightened perfectly within strut tubes

aluminumpork

How does one go about making sure they are centered and tightened perfectly?

VAP

but has certainly been experienced by several, if not many, at this forum.

1st method is remove strut and VERY carefully re-install making SURE strut is centered when threaded cap is installed... use LokTite blue and torque to spec. When done make sure strut hydraulic rod is parallel with strut tube from end-to-end

2nd method is iron-clad and at the link below<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/9080/msgs/404100.phtml">Bullet-proof strut centering method</a></li></ul>

squidix9

that and a leaking insert too.

UrbanAssaultAudi

what if your struts are almost air tight in the bore and they don't need the hose/bushing you speak of, then what. I am having the same issue...I cleaned the threads on the strut tube also and tightened till they wouldn't tighten anymore... very stupid tight.

JPCady

in the strut housing, then your camber would change as the steering wheel turns because the strut tube is not "on-axis"...as in the imaginary point-to-point axis between the upper mount and ball joint. If the top of the strut is out of line by .25" and the steering arm is in the middle of the assembly, then as you turn the assembly it will change angles in a way that it wasn't supposed to.

Or maybe it's not enough to make a difference.

Jake

VAP

only 1.750" diameter as the tops is swaged down to that ID. 2.940" down from the swaged diameter the strut opens up to 1.960" diameter. Now unless you have struts that are swaged at the top they cannot be air-tight. And even if they were you couldn't get the almost 2" diamter bottoms thru the 1.750" tops.

Secondly none of the shocks designed for these cars are even close to being a "good" fit, let alone an "air tight" one. They all have clearance between outer walls and strut ID. Good thing to as struts get hot when working hard.When struts get hot the strut body and oil inside expands. If they can't expand due to a tight, interference-fit somethings gotta give. There goes the hydraulic shaft seal. Instant failure!

You can get close to the scenario you describe on rear struts as they are parallel wall. But getting the "almost air tight" seal you're claiming to have on front struts just cannot happen on swaged-top struts.

Another similar failure that duplicates the "clunk" is when a strut fails internally. If the piston fails the hydraulic rod pivots orbitally within the shock body and is also accompanied by a "clunk."

VAP

and almost impossible to feel such slight changes so the "clunk" is virtually always the primary symptom rather than any noticeable change in camber.

It also contributes to "twang/twiong" type noises as it moves the coil spring back &amp; forth laterally on it's lower perches.

aluminumpork

with the Konis. But I'll double check this weekend. Thanks for the tips!