What exactly causes the blinker to flash fast when a bulb is out?
03-24-2008, 07:43 PM
#1
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What exactly causes the blinker to flash fast when a bulb is out?
Is it a secondary relay that kicks on when it measures an increased voltage in the circuit? Is there a way to bypass it? Any info appreciated...
03-25-2008, 05:16 AM
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if it is an imbalance of resistance what is the resistance produced by ..
the front turn signal / running light bulb normally? I have the running lights running my city lights, and the blinker connected to an LED panel and the blinkers blink fast even though the LED's are working & the rear bulb. I am guessing the LED's dont draw enough power to cause the system to realise there's a bulb there. How should I go about correcting this?
03-25-2008, 06:27 AM
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two ways... a big resister in parallel with the LED panel, or...
modify the turn signal circuit to use a different flasher module...
<a href="http://www.stu-offroad.com/electrical/led1/led-3.htm">Adding LED's to a jeep</a>
<a href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html">http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html</a>
Scroll down to the electronic flasher and power resister stuff at the bottom.
<a href="http://www.stu-offroad.com/electrical/led1/led-3.htm">Adding LED's to a jeep</a>
<a href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html">http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html</a>
Scroll down to the electronic flasher and power resister stuff at the bottom.
03-25-2008, 07:45 AM
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hey- I can answer this.
In another life I was an electrician
The bulbs in the circuit draw a certain amount of current equally. What's left is available to a coil in the flasher. The flasher is designed to OPEN (turn off) when it reaches a prescribed limit. Then it cools down and CLOSES (turns on) and the cycle is repeated.
If you remove a bulb or greatly reduce the current draw of a bulb by replacing it with an LED then more current is available to the flasher and it reaches it's limit more quickly.
I assume there are kits to compensate for this but if you want to be a lighting geek you can experiment with cheap resistors from radio shack.
You can put an ohm meter to one of the stock bulbs to find out its resistance and start from there.
good luck
The bulbs in the circuit draw a certain amount of current equally. What's left is available to a coil in the flasher. The flasher is designed to OPEN (turn off) when it reaches a prescribed limit. Then it cools down and CLOSES (turns on) and the cycle is repeated.
If you remove a bulb or greatly reduce the current draw of a bulb by replacing it with an LED then more current is available to the flasher and it reaches it's limit more quickly.
I assume there are kits to compensate for this but if you want to be a lighting geek you can experiment with cheap resistors from radio shack.
You can put an ohm meter to one of the stock bulbs to find out its resistance and start from there.
good luck
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03-25-2008, 10:55 AM
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Re: Hijack: Hows the progress with the strut mounts?
I got it all back together and it worked great for a while. Then it started kncking the same way. I found a loose lug nut.
Freaked me out- could the whole problem have been a looses lugnut? In some ways it felt like that but I never considered it because the wheels had been on for months.
I'd never seen lugnuts come loose by themselves after having been on a car for a while and I wasn't pshing it hard.
Anyway, it's good now and I learned a lot.
Thanks
Freaked me out- could the whole problem have been a looses lugnut? In some ways it felt like that but I never considered it because the wheels had been on for months.
I'd never seen lugnuts come loose by themselves after having been on a car for a while and I wasn't pshing it hard.
Anyway, it's good now and I learned a lot.
Thanks
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